M. Járó - L. Költő szerk.: Archaeometrical research in Hungary (Budapest, 1988)

Analysis - TIMÁR-BALÁZSY Ágnes: Investigation of dyes on textiles from the collections of Hungarian museums

D. Chromatographie conditions for basic synthetic dyes (See Table D): Adsorbent layer: Kieselgel G (Merk) Eluent: n-butyl alcohol: acetic acid: water = 50:10:20 3.4. Mass spectrometry For the investigation of dyes on Pre-Columbian textiles, mass spectrometry was used by de Wong [31]. 3.5. Flameless atomic absorption spectrometry Inorganic mordants were detected by this method by Mushak [29]. 3.6. X-ray fluorescence Iron, tin, zinc, copper, chrome and aluminium mordant were identified using X-ray fluorescence by Masschelein-Kleiner and Maes [36]. Tate and Dalrymple have also carried out numerous experiments applying this method as a means of determining mordants [60]. Koestler et al. examined self mordanted samples by an energy-dispersion X-ray spectrometer connected to a scanning electron microscope [61]. Samples taken from the Hungarian 11th century coronation mantle were investigated in an X-ray emission analyser fitted with iodine 125 and iron 55 analysers. For the iodine tests high-purity aluminium, for the iron tests copper underplates were applied. Aluminium could not be identified. On the red embroidery thread from the 11th century a great amount of iron as well as calcium, copper and silver were traced. Also a great amount of iron as well as calcium, arsenic, silver and gold was detected on the embroidery thread dyed by dyer's greenweed. Iron, calcium and arsenic on a 17th century fabric dyed by cochineal were detected. The presence of arsenic on red and yellow yams inspired the thought that it may have been applied as a pigment and not as a mordant. There are many recipes in the medieval manuscripts and books mentioning the use of orpiment (A.S2S3) to achieve golden yellow, or together with kermes or Polish cochineal a nice red. Examining the samples by X-ray diffraction no arsenic compound was identifiable. This warning example led us not to accept the result of X-ray fluorescence investigations without the detection by X-ray diffraction in deciding whether the metallic ion belongs to the mordant or to a pigment applied for dyeing. The fact that silver and gold were found on the embroidery threads draws our attention to the fact how important is a knowledge of the environment of the sample. In the present case the samples came from the unstitched comer of the mantle next to the silver braidings. The presence of gold may be explained by the fact that the red embroidery thread was meant to hold down the gold threads. 3.7. X-ray diffraction Prussian blue, chrome yellow and chrome orange, the three inorganic dyes relevant to dating, were investigated by X-ray diffraction. The diffractograms were taken on Agfa