M. Járó - L. Költő szerk.: Archaeometrical research in Hungary (Budapest, 1988)
Analysis - TIMÁR-BALÁZSY Ágnes: Investigation of dyes on textiles from the collections of Hungarian museums
2.3. Synthetic dyes Synthetic dyes entered the textile dyeing workshops in a very large number after their discovery . The most important groups and some members important for dating are Us ted below: Water-soluble dyes: acid (Naphtol Yellow 1864, Rocelline 1877,, Biebrich scarlet 1878, Gerosine 1878, Amaranth 1878, Scarlet crocein 1882, Brillant crocein 1882, Crystal Ponceau 1883, Azorubin 1883, Formyl violet 1890), direct (Congo Red 1884, Benzopurpurin 1885, Chrysophenine 1886, Diamin Fast Red F 1889, Diamin Violet N 1889, Diamin Brown M 1889), basic (Murexid 1853, Mauvein 1856, Fuchsin 1858, Coralline 1859, Lyon Blue 1860, Methyl violet 1861, Hoffman's violet 1862, Bismarck brown 1862, Safranin 1868, Methyl Green 1872, Eosine 1874, Methylene Blue 1876, Malachite Green 1877, Victoria Blue 1883, Auramin 1883, Rhc>damine B 1887) mordant (Alizarin 1869, Alizarin Orange 1874, Alizarin Red S 1874, Anthragallol 1877, Alizarin Brown S 1881, Alizarin Yellow 1887, Naphtalene Green 1899), leuco-esters of vat dyes (Indigosol O 1924), acid metallic complex (Neolan Green BL, 1915), reactive (Procions 1956) [24,25]. Dyes soluble by alkaline reduction: vat dyes (Indigo 1897, Ciba Blue 2B 1907, Hydron Blue 1908), sulphur dyes (Cachou of. Laval 1873) [24,25]. Dyes developed on the fibre: oxidation (Aniline Black 1863), azoic (Ponceau S 1880), phtalo-cyanines (Monastrel Blue B 1934) [24,25]. 3. Methods for the detection of dyes and mordants 3.1. Wet chemical analysis The method published by Pfister in 1935 consists of treating the fibre samples with a series of reagents of twelve members after which conclusions reagarding the dyes could be drawn from the changes in colour of the solution and the fibre itself [26]. A rapid and simple method for the detection of indigo was published by Hofenk de Graaff [27], and a similar one for the detection of turmeric by Knecht [28], A microchemical test is suggested by Kühn for investigating Prussian blue [29]. A wet chemical separating and analytical method was used for identifying Japanese textiles by Hayaski [30]. Plant, animal dyes, indigo carmine and Prussian blue are identified by Schweppe on the basis of treatment with 10% sulphuric acid [31]. He also suggests a test with four reagents and dyeing procedures for identifying the characteristic groups of synthetic dyes [32]. For investigating natural dyes I followed all the instructions of Pfister, on reference materials and unknown samples [33]. The disadvantages of this method that I met during the work were that it required a great amount of samples and it seemed easy to make subjective mistakes. On the basis of Schweppe's method for identifying the characteristic group of synthetic dyes I had noteworthy results when investigating ethnographical textiles from the end of the last and the beginning of this century [34].
