Fatuska János – Fülöp Éva Mária – ifj. Gyüszi László (szerk.): Annales Tataienses V. Környezetváltozás, termelés, fogyasztás: a történeti ökológia kérdései. Tata, 2006.

Knézy Judit: Környezetváltozások, halászat és halfogyasztás a Dunántúlon a 16-19. században

Environment, fishing and fish consumption in Western Hungary in the 16th-19th centuries Judit Knézy Hungary had been famous for fishing and fish consumption since the 14th century. There are also a lot of data on fishing methods, the work of fish groups, fishing laws, fish markets, fish export etc. from the period of the Turkish occupation as well. Hydraulic regulations started in the late 18th century in this territory and were finished by the early 20th century. These alterations had a beneficial effect on cereal production but unfavourably influenced the evolution of the fish stock and fish consumption. Contemporary authors made references to the fabulous richness in fish and crayfish. Different methods and tools were used for fishing in large rivers like the Danube, Drava, Raba and in lesser ones, in brooks, natural lakes, artificial ponds and mill races. Fish farms in large estates became very important in the 18th century. Fishing rights were owned by the landlords who could lease these rights, including those of catching crayfish and turtles, in exchange for various services. The most important species of this region in the 18th century included great sturgeon, several sturgeon varieties, carp, silure, crustaceans and some imported breeds. As regards dishes made of local fish breeds, crayfish and turtle, in most cases scattered references rather than detailed descriptions can be found in contemporary travel accounts, works on local history or notes on farming. Cookery books of the age mostly contained recipes from other, already published books from abroad. Nevertheless, we know about some fish dishes such as roast fish on spit, dried, parched and smoked fish dishes and fish soup, these having been mentioned in documents of witchcraft trials. The first account from Transdanubia of fish soup cooked with ground paprika dates from 1805, however, fish soup was also prepared without parika until the 1830s. Authors specialising themselves in farming attached great importance to the conservation of fish by smoking. Fish consumption was higher among Catholics than Protestants, and fish played a particularly important role in the diet of priests. The higher quality catch got to the table of squires, prelates and the gentry, the rest remaining to commoners. Crayfish was consumed by noblemen and peasants alike, while turtle only by gentlefolk. On the other hand, loach was a popular dish of the poor. Fish consumption varied according to social strata and ethnicity. In the period of the Austrian and later Austro-Hungarian Monarchy it was Hungary that supplied Vienna and Graz with fish, crayfish and turtle. The produce was transported ice-cooled, dried or smoked. Conversely, the import of these goods was very low. 80