A Móra Ferenc Múzeum Évkönyve: Studia Ethnographicae 2. (Szeged, 1998)

T. Knotik Márta: Gyári textilanyagok paraszti használatban

IRODALOM BAKOS Ferenc 1901 Makó város útmutatója. Makó GERGELY Katalin 1991 Paraszti polgárosodás a népi öltözködésben. In: A magyar nyelv és kultúra a Duna völgyében. Budapest-Wien, 860-866. DR. HAJÓS István 1959 Textíliák kézikönyve. Budapest MÖLLER János 1818 Az Európai Manufaktúrák és Fábrikák Mesterség Míveik. Pesten 1818. Az Állami Könyvterjesztő Vállalat reprint sorozata. Szeged, 1984. SZEMMÁRY László 1959 Kötéstan. Budapest T. KNOTlK Márta 1990 Öltözködés, viselet. In: Csongrád megye népművészete. Szerk. Juhász Antal. Budapest, 155232. A fotókat Dömötör Mihály és Pápai Zoltán készítették. Factory-made Textile in Peasant Usage MÁRTA T. KNOTIK In 19th century Hungary parallel with economic and social changes the bourgeois peasant clothing appeared, which accepted the usage of factory-made textiles. The author introduces taffeta - the material of silk-scarf, barege and damask from the textiles manufactured in the last third of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century through the collection of Móra Ferenc Museum. In her presentation the author stresses primarily the outer traits of the textiles which make them recognisable at first sight, then she presents the main technical methods. On the basis of her own experience and scientific literature she analyses base material, dyeing and techniques of weaving. She introduces historical data by citing from last century written sources. She reports the name of the pieces of clothes in the museum, their place of origin and collection, the features of the textile and in some cases the tightness of weaving and the width of the material. From changeant taffeta underwear, skirts and aprons were made. The gleaming textile was woven from silk by plain weaving. The warp and weft are of different colours (e.g. black and red), the width of material is 48-65 cms. She discusses the textile of silk scarf on the basis of its feature, the embroidery like broché ornament. The silk undertexture can be woven by different weaves, for example plain, twill or satin weave. According to the different types of wefts she differentiates broché 1., when the weft goes only along the motives; broché 2., when the weft goes only along the pattern; broché 3., when the weft goes along the entire fabric. The fabric width of a kerchief is 74-86 cms, while that of a shawl is 146-166 cms with a 20-22 cms long fringe. From transparent barege skirts were made. They were woven from white or black cotton thread by plain weave with a fabric width of 74-82 cms. They were patterned by weaving or printing. From damask bed- and table-linen and towels were made. The pattern is stressed by the light effect of wrap- and weft-sided weaves (glossy and dull finish). Among István Urbán's patterns, a haberdasher from Makó, there are not only plain white but also white patterns on coloured fabric or coloured patterns on white fabric. Lastly the author publishes completely the haberdasher István Urbán's stock from 1926, which also contains the name, amount and price of each textile. 249