A Herman Ottó Múzeum Évkönyve 44. (2005)

Gyulai Éva: Szürszabók és posztószabók Gömörben a 17-19. században

FELT CLOAK TAILORS AND FELT TAILORS IN COUNTY GÖMÖR DURING THE 16TH-19TH CENTURIES The tailors of County Gömör partly worked with coarse, grey felt (they were known as felt cloak tailor, called „szűrszabó" in Hungarian), while the finer imported Italian, British, Moravian and Polish textiles were sewn into clothing by felt tailors. The tailors of Rimaszombat (GrossSteffelsdorf/Rimavská Sobota, Slovakia), Rozsnyó (Rosenau/Roznava, Slovakia), Jolsva (Eltsch/Jelsava, Slovakia) and Csetnek (Stitnik, Slovakia) founded guilds at the close of the 16th century; felt cloak tailors were active in Rimaszombat, while tailors specialising in burghers' clothing catered to the needs of the German population in the mining town of Rozsnyó. Many apprentices from County Gömör studied in these guilds, but some also came from the Szepesscg. The activity of the German-speaking tailors in the mining town of Dobsina (Dobschau/Dobsina) was regulated by the German bye-laws from the 17th century. Tailors' guilds were also founded in Nagyröce (Rauschenbac/Revúca, Slovakia), Ratkó (Ratková, Slovakia), Tiszolc (Teisholz/Tisovec, Slovakia), and in the village of Kövi (Kamenany, Slovakia). The tailors of Gömör sold not only their own products, but also the grey felt produced in Gömör, mainly in the Great Hungarian Plain. The felt cloak tailors eventually became independent; in the 19th century, the so-called German tailors making clothing in the German style separated from the Hungarian tailors catering to the Hungarian population. There were also women tailors, who only made women's clothing. Jewish tailors also appeared in the guilds in the 19th century. The best-known product of the Gömör tailors was the felt cloak, an overgarment worn typically by peasants, which continued to be made and worn in the 20th century. Eva Gyulai 125