Dobrossy István: A miskolci vendégfogadók és a vendéglátás története 1745-1945 (Borsodi Kismonográfiák 21. Miskolc, 1985)

István DOBROSSY 1HE HISTORY OF INNS AND HOSPITALITY IN MISKOLC (1745-1945) (Abstract) „This glass is hiding, So it lives a merry life, It is given from hand to hand, Long live friendship." The verse of "the hiding-glass" collected by J. Szendrei in the 19th century reminds us of the symbol of Miskolc, the Avas hill and of the atmosphere of bottlecracking in its taverns which were digged in the Middle Ages. The wine-cellars of Avas were not only used for the storage of the local and country wine of good quality but also they became symbols of waiting for and entertaining guests while wine trade and linking crafts were developing. The rows of cellars were characterized in the evegings even as late as the 195os and 196os by the traditional receptions of the „old wine-growers". So the environs were pervaded by the good spirits of the wine-drinking companies. The custom of hiding-glass sung in the verse may have cherished and spreaded the outstanding fame of hospitality in Miskolc and urged for staying 01 returning its excellent followers like e.g. Ferenc Móra, József Lévay and Zsigmond Móricz. It was they among others who established that literary table company at the Avas where the members had their own glasses with their names engraved in. The cellar-owner put the "sweet nectar" of course beside the local food specialities before them in these glasses which custom compelled the guests to spread good news of his wine and hospitality. (Nowadays most of these glasses can be found in the collection of the museum in Rimaszombat.) Reffering to our historical knowledge and recent research in the archive we can mention that there are some records written in the Tapolca-abbey of the Miskolc-clan in the 15th or 16th century which enumerate the "menu" and accessories of receptions organized for fifty persons. But we can also mention the name of Miklós Oláh who addressed his letters to Miskolc and Mindszent the then independent settlement and wrote to the commander of the Diósgyó'r castle from The Low Countries. In these letters he mentions the Miskolc customs in connection with "the changing of life". In his work M Hungária et Atila he speaks about "certain" Miskolc dances. The description of Miklós Oláh gives evidence that the "ever good-spirited folk" received the guests with open arms. The documents from the Turkish age speak about the sad "guest entertaining" and "feasting" of the taxpayers. In opposition to this the nourishing of the armies of the Princes of Transylvania fighting for independence and later the supply of Ferenc Rákóczi, his officers and French guests call up more colourful and more pleasant memories of hospitality in Miskolc. We also studied some foreign travellers' descriptions which they made about their travelling in Hungary. One of the most interesting descriptions says that in the beginning of the 18 th century two Russian popes on the way to Italy, to the Pope mention those Miskolc burghers who did not begrudge their guests some cups of wine from their cellars. Although the hats of the poor travellers were stolen while they were sleeping on the confines of the city being tipsy because of the wine they were not left with bare head. 148