Begovácz Rózsa – Burján István – Vándor Andrea: Folk Art in Baranya County (Pécs, 2008)

Costumes

red. Womens' hair was divided in the middle in the old style, and small knots were curled behind the ears. Then the headdress was put on the hair covering the hair above the forehead. Formerly the headdress was a rectangular shaped black muslin, later silk or satin, its shape slowly became the shape of a sling. Black colour is a fashion related to youth in * ir^ff »* " this case as well, and has nothing M .. ( D ^ AAC O * ,t 3 Necklace / R.n. 52.4468.5 / I. 51 ci to do with mourning. A young w. 12,5 cms/ Bogád wife dressed in the most colourful way until the birth of her first child. In this period she tied a long kerchief made of white voile (called bíbor) over the headdress on festive occasions. The golden - and colourful silk - embroidered ends were spread on the breast in a way that displayed the embroidery. It was pinned with 3-3 decorative hairpins on the temples. A tassel made of beads accompanied this kind of headdress in the Sárköz fixed to the back of the headdress. Shirts in the Sárköz are of a Renaissance cut, the material of the sleeves is a particularly thin weave called száda, embroidered with a woollen thread. Around the neck a net-like collar made of beads was worn. The lower part of the body was covered by white linen skirts, the fabric was also characteristic of the Sárköz, it was the above mentioned száda. The upper skirt was made of red, blue or green cashmere, with an edge of a different colour inside. Over the shirt a sleeveless pruszlik was worn, with a shawl on it. The edge of the shawls was made even more decorated by rich silk fringing. The apron was formerly made of száda, later silk and velvet. On the upper part it was widely pleaded. Since around 1940 the fabric of the apron and the skirt have been identical, there is an apron to each skirt. Shirts have been replaced by blouses. They are tailored loose in waist, a narrow­sleeved shirt is worn under it. The sleeve of the shirt is decorated with ruffles and beads, it is pressed to the waist with a belt. Over the shirt a low-cut, short-waist coat is worn, made of black broadcloth, satin or silk. In the beginning of the 19 t h century the Turkish-like yellow boots were worn at festivals, later they preferred red boots. 57

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