Folia Historica 28. (Budapest, 2013)

II. KÖZLEMÉNYEK - Ewa Letkiewicz: The Hungarian King's Daughter Kinga's 13th Century Jewel in Polish Collections

Virgin Mary's hair, replaced in the year 1804 by the relics of Holy Cross's Tree, reliquary in the form of an ivy leaf (1294-1309) of Italian or French origin, reliquary with a thorn from the Thorn Crown (ca. 1320-1340) of French origin.46 They were made of very expensive materials. This resulted from the conviction that a Christian was obliged to decorate the reliquaries with precious metals and stones, so that they could reflect the power and glory of the saints. People wore relics on themselves (frequently locked in a pendant or ring) to show their respects to the saints, as well as the trust in their intercession, but also take advantage of the closeness of their power. In the Life of St. Kinga we can read that she brought the already dead sister Clare Jacobi back to her previous life with the use of the relic with the Tree of Lord's Cross.47

The scarce comparative material that we have managed to gather so far does not allow to formulate the conclusions concerning the place where the gem and jewel were made. The irregular shape of the gem, similar to an oval was the reason why the metal part of the jewel was fitted to it. This does not mean that both the gem and the setting were made in the same place and time, though, for instance, the French sources inform that the permanent practice of the 13th century Paris goldsmith who made jewelry objects was both cutting stones, carving them and making their sets.48 The fact that the gem was made in ä I'antique manner indicates that it was made in the circles and for the needs of persons who regarded identifying with the Roman traditions as important. The special value of cameos and carved gems in the conscience of medieval people is confirmed by the fact that in France in the 13th century laws were issued that restricted their usage exclusively to the king and a few persons closest to him.49

In the conclusion that can be formulated in the light of hitherto collected materials, it can be said that the jewel of Poor Clare's Sisters from Stary Sqcz is not one of the works of antique world, but it is a unique in its category, extremely rare relic of the 13th century European goldsmithing, prepared to play the role of a personal reliquary, decorated with precious stones and a gem - materials reserved for the elites. Its exceptional character is proven first of all by the rarity, which is the 13th century portrait cameo, made in antique manner.

46 Lightbown, R. W. op. cit. colorful illustration 66., 79., 79 a.

47 Niezgoda, C. OFMConv op. cit. 263.

48 Miller, A. M. op. cit. 51-53.

49 Idem 23.

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