Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 28. (Budapest, 2012)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Metallic Thread Lace Ornaments on the Textiles of the Esterházy Treasury

ground with stylized floral motifs. The ground mesh is similar to that of the coat with corals. The pattern is produced by the gimps around tiny wheatears but their design is different from the pattern of the fabric. The ribbons hanging down at the back are constructed from twice two narrow strips of densely patterned metal lace sewn together at length. The floral motifs of the mitre and the lace are outlined with corals and pearls. Horse-head cover Undoubtedly the most peculiar use of the metal lace is in the decoration of the festive cover for a horse's head. On the horse-head cover used in ceremonial processions

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9 in the first half of the 18th century the arrangement of the lace emphasizes the structure, similarly to the coat armour and the coat. (fig. 17) It stresses the drop-shaped cut of the silk damask of a floral pattern, the centre line and the holes cut for the ears. The silver-gilt metal lace with a pattern of tiny flowers was once finely contrasted with the originally red fabric, but since the latter faded to yellow, it merges with it almost unnoticed. Its loose irregular mesh structure alludes to the second half of the 17th century, which makes it plausible to presume that the lace is in secondary use. (fig. 18) This may also be confirmed by the phrase "old lace" cited from the sources above. As the rich apparels in the Esterházy treasure indicate, valuable and peculiar metal laces were in demand in Hungary, similarly to West Europe, in the early modern age. This ornament was, however, used with some modification, integrated into the Hungarian dressing culture. 18. Lace of horse-head cover 69