Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 28. (Budapest, 2012)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Metallic Thread Lace Ornaments on the Textiles of the Esterházy Treasury

pared to embroidery, lace has the advantage that it can be removed and partly or wholly re-used. Since lace and its base material it­self were both very expensive, the worn or torn laces were not thrown away but the relatively intact parts were cut out and used as complements or substitutes. 3 2 An in­triguing example is the dolman Leopold I, Holy Roman Emperor, wore when he was crowned king of Hungary in 1655. 3 3 From the waistline of the long coat reaching down below the knees up through the sleeve's eye down to the elbow fragments of two metal net laces were inserted. They must be a later addition, also verified by the technique of the loose net lace. Though in this case we have false laces, the use of an expensive material as complement also proves the high esteem for the special gar­ment. Mente or upper coat The Hungarian mente was a coat worn over the dolman and decorated similarly to it. It reached down below the knees; the front cut was straight, at the back around the hips there was a triangular inset. The type whose sleeves ran down to the bottom of 11. Bizarre pattern of lace on the mente coat 63

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