Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 27. (Budapest, 2009)

Katalin E. NAGY - Ádám BÍRÓ - Ádám BOLLÓK - László KÖLTŐ Péter LANGÓ - Attila Antal TÜRK: Byzantine Silk Fragments from a Tenth-century Grave at Fonyód

I tysáceletiá n. é. (iz istorii kostűma). Tom. 1. Samara 2001, 87-122, (hereafter Ierusalimskaä 2001) ris. 2. 18 Bollók et al. 2009, p. 207-210. 19 For the occurrence of this type, see: Bollók et al. 2009, 208. 20 Gilian Vogelsang-Eastwood: Sasanian 'RidingCoats': The Iranian Evidence. In: Riding Costume in Egypt: Origin and Appearence. Edited by: Cäcilia Fluck - Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Leiden - Boston 2004, 218: '... the coat/kaftan-like items ... are open at the front and put on in a manner similar to modernday coats (rather than over the head like tunic). A difference has been made between the garments that are open down the front (coats) and those which are fastened to one side (kaftans).' 21 It is an easily observed and described technique of closing late medieval upper garments. Since the system is identical, we deem it suitable to be applied here. (E. Nagy Katalin: „... elegyesen kötött öreg száras gomb a 17. század második feléből." ["... old Mandarin button of diverse knotting from the second half of the 17th c."] Ars Decorativa 13,1993, pp. 115-126). 22 Szentes-Derekegyházi oldal, D3 tábla, grave 5 (Langó Péter-Türk Attila: Honfoglalás kori női sír Szentes Derekegyházi oldal határrészéből [Female grave from the Szentes-Derekegyhaz fields], Szentes 2003, Figs on pp. 15 and 20); Karos-Eperjesszög cemetery II, grave 47 (Révész 1996, 24-25, Fig. 124). 23 Ierusalimskaä 2001, pp. 87-122, ris. 5b. 24 G. V. Kubarev: Kul'tura drevnyh tűrkov Altai. Po materialam pogrebal'nyh pamätnikov. [Culture of the early Turks in the Altay region (based on materials excavated from burial monuments)]. Novosibirsk 2005, pp. 30-40. 25 E.g. István Dienes: Un cimetiére des Hongrois conquérants ä Bashalom. Acta Archaeologica Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae 7, 1956, pp. 245-277.; ibid.: A perbetei lelet. Milyen volt a honfoglaló magyarok öve? (Der Fund von Perbete. Wie sahen die Gürtel der landnehmenden Ungarn aus?) Archaeológiai Értesítőd, 1959, pp. 145-158. 26 The label was first used: László Révész: Mit Beschlägen geschmückte Pferdegeschirre aus den landnahmenzeitlichen Frauen- und Männergräbern. Acta Archaeologica Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae 46, 1994, pp. 307-361. 27 Ibid. 28 Cf. the bibliography cited in note 24. 29 Bollók et al. 2009, p. 165. 30 Bollók et al 2009, pp. 148-149. 31 On this see Leo Marsicanus' famous description, Bollók et al 2009, p. 148 32 "Quo videlicet tempore cum multos de nostris hominibus captivassent, non pauca in eis redimendis expendimus, quorum haec summa est. Coronam de argento magnam cum catenis argentis. Turibulum argenteum deauratum. Pocula argentea 4. Coclearia de argento tria pondo libre unius. Tarentos 20. Planetam diarodinam de bizanteis 15; aliam cum listis argenteis de bizanteis 16, et aliam cum leonibus. Urnas de pallio 4, longitudinem passuum 4, latitudinem palmorum trium. Pannum de altari diarodinum de bizanteis 16. Tapéta optima 16 pro bizanteis 67. Pannum admasurum pro bizanteis 8. Hostiales 3 pro bizanteis 13. Castanéas duas pro bizanteis 8. Pulvinaria serica tria pro bizanteis 10." Gombos F. Albin: Catalogus fontium Históriáé Hungaricae aevo ducum et regnum ex Stirpe Arpad descendentium ab anno Christi DCCC usque ad annum MCCC1. Budapestini 1938. 33 For precious textiles used in Byzantine monastic context, see Anna Muthesius: Precious Clothes and Byzantine Monasticism. In: Studies in Silk in Byzantium, London 2004, pp. 143-155. 34 Al-Masäidi: Les prairies dőr. Traduit par CharlesAdrien-Casimir Barbier de Meynard - Abel Pavet de Courteille. Paris, Societe asiatique 1962.2 179. p. 497. 33