Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 27. (Budapest, 2009)

Piroska ÁCS: "These Robes Will Appear Like a Vision..."

factor in the renewal of religious art. It was initiated by the Benedictine Abbot of Solesmes, Prosper-LouisPascal Guéranger (1805-1875), and through the decrees of Pope Pius X, it went beyond the monasteries and exerted an ever-wider influence. 6 The work she displayed there won gold and silver medals. 7 The ceremonial robes, by their old names, comprised: Pluviale, Dalmatica, Casula, Infula, Manipulus, Stola, Gremiale. 8 Antal Somogyi: 'A pécsi székesegyház új nagy püspöki ornátusa' [The new ceremonial episcopal robes ofPécs Cathedral], In.: Élet 1938, 1359. 9 Michael Doukas, Byzantine Emperor (1071-1079), Geovitzas, i.e. King Géza 1 ol Hungary (1074-1077), Constantinos Porphyrogenitus, Byzantine Emperor (912-959). 10 Peg plan: diagram of the weave, showing the crossing of the threads. It is drawn in squared paper on which the vertical columns represent warp threads and the horizontal lines, welt threads. The squares at the intersections represent interlaces. Where the warp is on top at an interlace, the relevant square is filled in, and where the weft is on top, it is left white. 11 Compare Bubryák Orsolya: „E meditullio basilicae erutum"? Megjegyzések a Szent István-szarkofág provenienciájához [„E meditullio basilicae erutum"? Some comments to the origine of St Stephen's sarcophagus]. In: Ars Hungarica 2007/1,5-28.) 12 This Hungarian women's religious order was set up in 1908. Its main sponsor was Ottokár Prohászka, Bishop of Székesfehérvár. The permanent objective of the order is to announce and implement social and charitable work in the spirit of Christ, and to serve the church and the country according to the demands ol the time. 13 Its members were Antal Lepold, Canon of Esztergom, István Komócsy, Canon of Pécs, Prof Antal Somogyi, Ernő Molnár, episcopal counsellor, president of the church art office, and Lajos Goszleth, architect, secretary of the church art office. The list was published in Nemzeti Újság, 12 May 1938, p.12. lANemzeti Újság, 12May 1938,p.12. 15 Antal Somogyi: 'A pécsi székesegyház új nagy püspöki ornátusa' [The new ceremonial episcopal vestments ofPécs Cathedral], In: Élet 1938, p. 1360. 16 See note 14. 17 Principal literature on the oeuvre: Edit Egyed: 'P. Szabó Éva textiltervezőről' [Éva P. Szabó, Textile Designer]. In: Művészet 1967, p. 29; Éva P. Szabó: 'Textiltervezők a két háború között' [Textile designers between the wars]. In: Ipari Művészet 1967, pp. 54-60; Judith Koós: P. Szabó Éva, Budapest, 1974; Torday 1996. 18 It was designed by Gyula Kaesz; on the wall was a relief representing weaving by Margit Kovács; and visitors sat on seats by Marcell Breuer. 19 Textile designer and graphic artist (Budapest, 1917 - ?), student at the School of Applied Arts 19361940, where he studied textiles under Sándor Muhits, János Stein and Jenő Haranghy. Director of studies ol the printed fabric design course between 1949 and 1956. In his active artistic period he designed printed material and produced applied graphics. He received several domestic and foreign accolades tor the design of his art calendars. His work spanned the extremes of realistic motifs and playful abstraction, and included floral and avian motifs from his studies of natural subjects. The forms of folk art inspired many of his works. As a textile designer, he explored the potential of new technologies. His decorative textiles included cotton woven with synthetic fibre designs. In pursuit of rich tones and pictorial effects, he first used autotypes in screen printing. He used chain printed curtain material which can be used on both sides. As a graphic artist, he produced posters, calendars, brochures, greetings cards and greetings telegrams. 20 From the early printed book Missale Strigoniense, made in Venice in 1493 in the press of Johannes Hamman de Landola. 133