Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 26. (Budapest, 2008)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Kerchiefs Adorned with Bobbin Lace Pendants from the Second Half of the 17* and First Half of the 18th Century

NOTES 1 See: Brown, Clare: Lace front the Victoria and Albert Museum. London, 2004, plate 5, 6, 9, 12, 14, 16, 24.; Ahegg, Margaret: Apropos Patterns. Riggisberg, 1998, plate 125-128. Several designs (woodcut patterns) can also be found in the patternbooks of embroidery and lace published from 1557. 2 Buzási, Enikő (ed.): Főúri ősgalériák, családi arcképek a Magyar Történelmi Képcsarnokból [Aristocratic galleries of ancestors, family portraits from the Hungarian Historical Portrait Gallery]. Exhibition catalogue. Hungarian National Gallery, 1988 (hereinafter: Cat. Budapest 1988). 3 Aristocratic embroidery: a characteristically Hungarian type of embroidery whose overall appearance, patterns, colour schemes, arrangement differ considerably from West European embroideries and represent a separate style. Adjusted to the Hungarian tastes, it alloys West European and Turkish motifs, first of all floral patters and structural features. See: László, Emőke: Hungarian Rennaissance and Baroque Embroideries. Aristocratic Embroideries on Linen. The Collections of the Museum of Applied Arts II. Budapest, 2001. 4 Cat. Budapest 1988, cat. no. C. 21; Tompos, Lilla: A szépség dicsérete [The praise of beauty]. Budapest, 2004 (hereinafter: Tompos 2004), p. 24; Radvánszky, Béla: Magyar családélet és háztartás a XVI. és XVII. században [Hungarian family life and household in the 16

th and 17'

1

' centuries] (2

nd

, revised edition). Budapest, 1986 (hereinafter: Radvánszky 1986), vol. I, fig. 138. 5 Benjamin von Block's painting, 1655. Kept at the Esterházy Ahnengalerie, Burg Forchtenstein. Owned by Esterházy Privatstiftung, Eisenstadt. Cf. Szilágyi, András (ed.): Die Esterházy-Scbatzkammer. Kunstwerke aus fünf Jahrhunderten. Catalogue of the exhibition presented in the Budapest Museum of Applied Arts. Budapest, 2006 (hereinafter: Cat. Budapest 2006), cat. no. 49a, pp. 112-114. (catalogue entry by Enikő Buzási) 6 Anonymous painter, 1665. Hungarian National Museum, Historical Picture Gallery, Budapest. Cf. Buzási, Enikő: 'Catafalque Painting in Hungary'. Acta Históriáé Artium 25, 1975, pp. 99, 117, fig. 5. 7 Radvánszky 1986, vol. I, p. 250 and p. 215. 8 See: Bruggeman, Martine: LEurope de la Dentelle. Brugge, 1997, p. 41. 9 Cat. Budapest 1988, cat. no. C. 231 and fig. 3; fig. 143. Unfortunately, most of the 16

,h-18''' century portraits of noblemen perished over the centuries. 10 Tompos 2004, pp. 15, 19 and 37. 11 Inv. no. IM 7700; In: Péter, Márta (ed): Periods in European Decorative Arts. Rennaissance and Manierism. Budapest, 1988, cat. no. 385. 12 Radvánszky 1986, vol. II, p. 122. 13 Cat. Budapest 1988, cat. no. C. figs 76 and 34. 14 Unknown painter, around 1689. Kept at the Esterházy Ahnengalerie, Burg Forchtenstein. Owned by Esterházy Privatstiftung, Eisenstadt. Cf. Cat Budapest 2006, cat. no. 50a. pp. 115-116. (Catalogue entry by Enikő Buzási). 15 Divald, Kornél: 'Sáros vármegye szövött emlékei. [Woven relics in Sáros county]'. Magyar Iparművészet 1905, pp. 89-156; Palotay, Gertrúd: Tót csipke, tót hímzés a XVIII. századi Erdélyben [Slovakian lace, Slovakian embroidery in 18

,h century Transylvania]. Kolozsvár, 1947; Takács, Béla: Református templomaink úrasztali térítői [Altar cloths in Hungarian Calvinist churches]. Budapest, 1983; Marko

vá, Eva: Slovenské cipky. Bratislava, 1962. 16 Radvánszky 1986, vol. II, p. 361. 17 Radvánszky 1986, vol. II, p. 366. 18 Takács 1983, pp. 103-104. 19 Note: The yellow colour may allude to the core that may show when the metal thread wears off. 20 Palotay 1947, p. 9. 21 Full size: 93 x 92cm, inv. no. 90.127.1.; Restored by Andrea Varfalvy, 1990. Bibliography: László, Emőke: Hungarian Renaissance and Baroque Embroideries. Aristocratic Embroideries on Linen. The Collections oj the Museum of Applied Arts II. Budapest, 2001, cat. 193. 22 Csernyánszky, Mária: The Art of Lace-making in Hungary. Budapest, 1962, p. 34. 23 89 x 93 cm, inv. no. 13978. Unpublished, restored by Anikó Pataki, 1995. 24 The correspondence on the purchase: Adattár, 1887/148. 25 Examination of material see: Pataki, Anikó: XVII. századi úrasztali kendő restaurálása [Restoration of a 17'

h century altar cloth]. Restoration documentation, Museum of Applied Arts, Textile Department, 1995. 26 Inv. no. 12964. Unpublished. 27 Inv. no. 12811. Designed on the basis of the mentioned bonnet by Béla Angyal, 1896. See: Szterényi, József: 'Iparoktatás. [Teaching the crafts]'. Magyar Iparművészet 1896, p. 236. 28 See: Marková 1962; Jos Vydra - M. Sedláceková-Serbusková: Dentellerie en Tchécoslovaquie. Prague, 1930. 29 Inv. no. IM 13384. Unpublished, cleaned by Márta Tóth, 2008. 30 Correspondence on the purchase: Adattár, 1890/13. 31 The construction of this pattern see: László 2001, pp. 110-134. 32 Gróh, István: 'Gömör megyei csipkék és hímzések. [Laces and embroideries in Gömör county]'. Magyar Iparművészet 1905, no. 8, pp. 53-55; Csernyánszky 1962. 33 Palotay 1947, p. 9.