Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 22. (Budapest, 2003)
Márta JÁRÓ: On the History of a 17th Century Noblemans' Dolman and Mantle, based on the Manufacturing Techniques of the Ornamental Metal Threads. Or de Milan, Or de Lyon and Silver of Clay Ornamentations on a ceremonial Costume from the Esterházy Treasury
APPENDIX EXAMINATION RESULTS FOR THE METAL THREAD SAMPLES FROM THE MANTLE AND DOLMAN Mantle Sample ml. Silver lancé pattern-weft thread of base fabric Description: wire of silvery appearance, tarnished Diameter, ca. 0.07 mm Composition: pure silver Manufacturing technique: drawn wire of pure silver Sample m2. Gold brocading-weft thread of base fabric Description: slightly tarnished, gold-looking metal strip wound around a yellowish fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip looks like tarnished silver. Width of strip: ca. 0.4 mm Composition of outer surface of strip: 1st sample, gold ca. 40 %, silver ca. 57 %, copper ca. 3 % 2nd sample, gold ca. 31 %, silver ca. 66 %, copper ca. 3 % Composition of inner surface of strip: 1 st sample, silver ca. 98 %, copper ca. 2 % 2 nd sample: silver ca. 95.5 %, copper ca. 4.5 % Core: silk, 2-ply, S-twisted, pale yellow Manufacturing technique: strip cut from a single-sided gilt silver sheet or wide strip, wound around a silk core in S-twist. Sample m3. Gold thread of woven braid Description: slightly tarnished, gold-looking metal strip wound around a yellow fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip looks like slightly tarnished silver. Width of strip: ca. 0.25-0.3 mm Composition of outer surface: gold ca. 15 %, silver ca. 79 %, copper ca. 6 % Composition of inner surface: silver ca. 96.5 %, copper ca. 3.5 % Core: silk, S-twisted, yellow Manufacturing technique: strip cut from singlesided gilt silver sheet or wide strip, wound around a silk core in S-twist. Sample m4. Silver thread of woven braid Description: slightly tarnished, silver-looking metal strip wound around a white fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip also looks like slightly tarnished silver. Width of strip: ca. 0.5 mm Composition of outer surface: silver ca.98 %, copper ca. 2 % Composition of inner surface: silver ca. 98 %, copper ca. 2 % Core: silk, S-twisted, white Manufacturing technique: strip cut from a silver sheet or a wide strip, wound around a silk core in S-twist. Sample m5. gold thread of plaited braid Description: slightly tarnished, gold-looking metal strip wound around a pale yellow fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip looks like slightly tarnished silver. Width of strip: ca. 0.3-0.4. mm Composition of outer surface: gold ca. 19 %, silver ca. 77.5 %, copper ca. 3.5 % Composition of inner surface: silver ca. 97.5 %, copper ca. 2.5 % Core: silk, S-twisted, pale yellow Manufacturing technique: strip cut from a single-sided gilt silver sheet or a wide strip, wound around a silk core in S-twist. Sample m6. silver thread of plaited braid Description: slightly tarnished, silver-looking metal strip wound around a white fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip also looks like slightly tarnished silver. Width of the strip: ca. 0.5 mm
