Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 22. (Budapest, 2003)

Márta JÁRÓ: On the History of a 17th Century Noblemans' Dolman and Mantle, based on the Manufacturing Techniques of the Ornamental Metal Threads. Or de Milan, Or de Lyon and Silver of Clay Ornamentations on a ceremonial Costume from the Esterházy Treasury

28 Pirotechnia, 1925, 449. 29 In the German translation: "...mit einer langen, federnden, scharfen Schere..." Pirotechnia, 1925, 452. 30 Brossard quotes the work of E. Binet (Essay des merveilles de la nature), in: Brossard: Les matières mêlées à la soie, Revue des Arts Décoratifs, 1885-1886, 201. 31 The first such mechanisation attempt in Milan was unsuccessful, as Brenni reports, quoting Verga, in: Brenni, L.: L'Arte del Battiloro ed i Filati d'oro e d'argento, Milan, 1930 (hereafter: Brenni, 1930), 22. 32 Baroque-cat. 1990, cat. no.: 2.58. 33 Baroque-cat. 1990, cat. no.: 2.58. 34 Kunstgewerbemuseum der Stadt Köln, inv. no.: D 750. 35 Errera, I.. Catalogue d'étoffes anciennes et modernes: Musée Roxaux des Arts Décoratifs de Bruxelles. 3

rd ed., Bruxelles, 1927, cat. no. 340.: "Satin vert décoré d'or et d'argent. Travail du XVIe-XVIIe siècle". 36 Markowsky, B.: Europäische Seidenge webe des 13.18. Jahrhunderts: Kunstgewerbemuseum der Stadt Köln, 1976, (hereafter: Markowsky 1976), cat. no. 331: "Atlas, broschiert, Italien, um 1620-1640". 37 I thank Dr. Ingrid De Meuter, head of the carpet and textile collection, and Chris Verhecken-Lammens, textile researcher, both of the Brussels Musée Royaux d'Art et Histoire, for providing the samples and for their other assistance. 35 Grassimuseum Leipzig/ Museum für Kunsthandwerk, inv. no.: 1.0132. Bluish-lilac silk fabric, lamé. I thank Dr. Babette Küster, head of the museum's textile collection, for her valuable assistance. 39 Baroque-cat. 1990, cat. no.: 2.58. 40 For instance the velvet piece, dated to the first quarter of the 17

th century, preserved in the Florence Museo Nazionale del Bargello, inv. no.: 244

IC. See: Velluti e Moda tra XV e XVII secolo, exhibition catalogue, eds.: Nasso, C. et al, Museo Poldi Pezzoli, Milano, 1999, cat. no. 24. (hereafter: Velluti e Moda, 1999); the velvet pieces presented by Markowsky (e.g. cat. nos.: 302, 314), in: Markowsky 1976; or the green damask dated between 1620 and 1630 presented in the Borkopp-Restle catalogue (cat. no.: 41) in: Borkopp-Restle, B.: Textile Schätze aus Renaissance und Barock aus den Sammlungen des Bayerischen Nationalmuseums, Bestandskatalog, Munich, 2002; etc. 41 The painting is in the Museo Stibbert, Florence, inv. no.: 16702, see: Velluti e Moda, 1999, 33. 42 For example the so-called chasuble of Kőszeg (Italian base-fabric, 2

nd half of the 15

th century). See: Ember, Mária: Régi textíliák [Ancient textiles], Magyar Helikon - Corvina Kiadó, Budapest, 1980,40. Also the so-called Bakócz liturgical vestment (Italian base-fabric, first half of the 16

lh century) preserved in the Museum of Christianity, Esztergom. See: Nagy, Katalin: Bakócz Tamás miseruhájának konzerválása [The conservation of the liturgical vestment of Tamás Bakócz], Múzeumi Műtárgyvédelem, 12, 1983,77-100. 43 See: Oszmán-török hímzések, kiállítási katalógus [Osmani-Turkish embroideries, exhibition catalogue], ed. Pásztor, E., Eger, 1990: amongst others: ornamental saddlecloth, beginning of the 17

th century, cat. no.: 24; ornamental horse-blanket, cat. no.: 32, etc., or the 16

(1,-17

lh century textile piece, Museum of Applied Arts, Budapest, inv. no.: 18.279. 44 As far as we know the earliest analysed samples, dated to the 9

th century, come from a male grave in the parish church of Traismauer, Austria. See: Petraschek-Heim, I.: Textilkundliche Untersuchungen von Stickereien aus Grab I in der Stadtpfarrkirche von Traismauer, in: Fundberichte aus Österreich 16/1977, Vienna, 1977/1978, 261-274. Late versions appear in braids manufactured in the second half of the 20

lh century, and are presumably still used today. See: Járó, M., Gál, T., Tóth, A.: The characterization and deterioration of modern metallic threads, Studies in Conservation, Vol. 45, No. 2., 2000, (hereafter: Járó et al., 2000), 96-99. 45 The data on the age of the textiles are taken from the respective catalogue cards. 46 Bergstrand, M., Hedhammar, E., Nord, A.G., Tronner, K.: All that glitters is not gold: An examination of metal decorations on ecclesiastical textiles, in: Preprints of the ICOM Committee for Conservation, 12th Triennial Meeting, Lyon, 1999, Vol. II, 621-624. 47 Museum of Applied Arts, Budapest, inv. no.: 12.917. 48 Savary des Bruslons, J.: Dictionnaire uiversel de commerce, Geneva, 1750 (hereafter: Savary des Bruslons, 1750), 6e édition (first edition 1723), tome 2, 1595. 49 Brenni, 1930, 53-54. 50 Poirson: Histoire du règne d'Henri IV, Paris, 1862, vol. III, 277. - quoted by Brenni, in: Brenni, 1930, 54. 51 Data from 1628; in: Archivio Storico Civico di Milano - Materie-Battiloro e Battifogli, Cartella 55, quoted by Brenni in: Brenni, 1930, 22, see footnote 1. and other data: ibid., 49. 52 Correspondance administrative sous le regne de Louis XIV - publiée par Depping, Tome III., Paris, 1852, 756759., in: Brenni, 1930, Documento N. 3, 79-80. 53 According to this description, a metal bar is first covered with a layer of silver (probably with a thin silver foil), then heated in a furnace almost to the melting-point; then using a dry piece of wood or a suitable stone (chalcedon, or bloodstone) the metal covering is rubbed down onto the surface. The bar is cooled, reheated until it glows, then hammered down to a suitable diameter to enter the draw-plate. Thin wire is then drawn from the compound bar. See: Pirotechnia, 1925,449. 54 See for example: Savary des Bruslons, 1750, tome 2, 1595.; or the French Encyclopaedia (Diderot, D., Le Rond d'Alembert, J.: Encyclopédie, ou dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers, Neufchastel, Tome 16, 1765, 348.) which makes considerable use of this source. 53 See for example: Beckmann, Johann: Anleitung zur Technologie oder zur Kentniss der Handwerke, Fabriken und Manufakturen, Göttingen, 1777 (hereafter: Beckmann, 1777), 368.; and later German works referring to this source, for example: Krünitz, J.

G.: Oeconomische Encyklopädie 2. Ausgabe, LXXXIX Theil, Berlin, 1802,441-442. 56 Savary des Bruslons, 1750, tome 2, 1596. 57 Beckmann, 1777, 368. 58 See: Schreier, B.A., Bresee, R.R.: History of Deco-