Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 22. (Budapest, 2003)

Márta JÁRÓ: On the History of a 17th Century Noblemans' Dolman and Mantle, based on the Manufacturing Techniques of the Ornamental Metal Threads. Or de Milan, Or de Lyon and Silver of Clay Ornamentations on a ceremonial Costume from the Esterházy Treasury

from an embroidery from the second half of the 16

th century. However the dating in these two cases is uncertain, since there are metal threads of several kinds in both pieces, and the samples in question might come from repairs or supplemental alterations. For similar reasons, in the case of the dolman we cannot draw far-reaching conclusions; but we may go so far as to say that the metal thread wound around the silk core (the Brussels lace) is earlier than the one found on the tulle-based lace. It is probable that the former was used for making an extension to the garment, and then in the course of a later operation the tulle-based lace was applied as a repair of the earlier alteration. It is also possible however that both lace pieces were sewn-in on the same occasion. As far as the lace pieces from other sources are concerned, of the 19 samples of metal threads analysed by us (taken from 13 lace pieces which are dated to the period between the end of the 16

th century and the beginning of the 18

th century), all except two are gilt-silver or silver; and if a core is used, it is made of silk. In the case of the two exceptions, the thread was made by winding brass strip around a linen core. Among H^-century aristocratic garments, we have not yet found bobbin-lace using such "false" type metal thread. For the lace of the so-called coat-armour found in the Esterházy collection, reputedly worn by László Esterházy (and thus made prior to 1652)

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, metal thread made from silver strip gilt on both sides was used, as was also the case for the lace decorations of two richly-decorated dolmans and a cape from the second half of the 17

th century

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. In other pieces, such as the mid 17

th-century tablecloth decorated with the Kéry-Czobor family coat of arms

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, or in a liturgical vestment dated to the first third of that century

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, the lace was made using a similar type of gold thread. In the process of making the extension to the dolman under discussion, however, it appears not to have been important what material was employed for covering of the insertion-pieces in the garment, which otherwise is composed of a very expensive type of gold fabric. The aim of the maker of the alteration seems to have been merely that the additional material had an appearance in harmony with the dolman's basefabric; in both cases, on the silver base, large gold "patches" appear. Metal thread used in a repair to the dolman To conceal a patch-repair on the right-hand breast section of the dolman a shiny silvercoloured metal thread was used, probably as an imitation of the lancé-weft silver wire. This "repair" thread is of small diameter, although somewhat thicker than that of the skofium.

72 Manufacturing technique of the thread Examination of the morphology of the thread reveals that thin pieces of metal foil or wider strips were pressed onto the snow-white cotton yarn, which was composed of two twisted threads. (Fig. 16) The thickness of the thread is just over 0.1 mm. Analysis of the material showed that the metal foil was made of an aluminium alloy containing copper and zinc. We have never encountered this type of metal thread before, either in our own experience or in the literature. Conclusions regarding the "repair" thread The cost of the small block of aluminium manufactured by Deville and displayed at the World Exhibition of 1855 was comparable to that of gold. Cutlery and other objects were specially made for the Emperor Napoleon III from the new, unique and extremely valuable metal, the so-called "silver of clay".

73 The first volume of the technical encyclopaedia by Karmasch and Heeren, published in 1876, dedicates several pages to the "metal of the century".

74 The article mentions that, in consequence of the manufacturing process, the material contains contamination traces of copper and zinc. It was only at the end of the 19

th century that it became possible to produce pure aluminium.

75 Most metal threads produced in the 20

th century employed aluminium; the earliest such thread examined by us has the name "Cellometal", and was in use from 1936 onwards. It is composed of very thin aluminium sandwiched between "Cellophane" foils.

76 But