Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 22. (Budapest, 2003)

Márta JÁRÓ: On the History of a 17th Century Noblemans' Dolman and Mantle, based on the Manufacturing Techniques of the Ornamental Metal Threads. Or de Milan, Or de Lyon and Silver of Clay Ornamentations on a ceremonial Costume from the Esterházy Treasury

Table 1. 17

th-century textiles with gilt-silver threads, classified according to date and the gilding technique used Date or Period* Single sided gilt-silver thread Double sided gilt-silver thread early 17

th c. embroidery, Italian (1)** fabric, Italian (1) embroidery, Italian ( 1 ) embroidery, Turkish ( 1 ) 17th c, 1st. quarter embroidery, Hungarian ( 1 ) 1618 embroidery, Hungarian ( 1 ) ca. 1620 lace, unknown (1) 17th c, 2nd. quarter embroidery, Hungarian (1) 1620-1640 fabric, Italian (1) fabric, Italian (2) 1633 embroidery, Hungarian ( 1 ) 1642 excavated fragment, unknown (1) 1648 embroidery, Turkish (1) 17th c, 1st. half embroidery, Hungarian (1) mid 17th c. fabric, Italian (2) braid, Italian (2) embroidery, Hungarian (7) fabric, Italian (1) lace, unknown (2) 1630-1660 embroidery, Hungarian (1) 17th c, 2nd. half embroidery, Turkish (1) embroidery, Hungarian (2) lace, unknown (3) 17th c, 3rd quarter — fabric, Italian (1) lace, unknown (1) 1660-1670 fabric, Italian (1 ) 1664 (?) embroidery, Hungarian (1) 1665 embroidery, Hungarian ( 1 ) 1667 embroidery, German (1) 1682 -1687 embroidery, Hungarian (1) 1696 embroidery, Hungarian? ( 1 ) Late 17th c. fabric, Italian (1) fabric, Turkish (1) embroidery, Hungarian (3) embroidery, Turkish (1) 17th c. (no precise date) embroidery, Hungarian (1) fabric, French (1) fabric, Italian (1) fabric, Turkish (1) fabric, French? ( 1 ) embroidery, Hungarian (5) embroidery, Turkish (3) embroidery, unknown ( 1 ) lace, unknown (1) fringe, Turkish (1) braid, Turkish (1) * Data concerning age and origin are taken from the relevant museum catalogue descriptions. **Number of examples between brackets