Vadas József (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 13. (Budapest, 1993)

V. EMBER Mária: Minták és változataik az úrihimzéseken

gold and silver, with alternating pinks and daisies in lobed arcades. The arcades are separated by tulip motifs (see pict.9). The gala dress was made in Transylvania, in the 1620s. The border of a chasuble from 1670 has similar motifs of tulips and four-lobed flowers. The coats of arms of the Károlyi and Sennyei families are embroidered between the flowers 8 . The arcades on the border of a tablecloth from the seventeenth century Transylvania (sec pict. 10) are decorated with pink and tulip stems. The linen border embroidered in polychrome silk and gold thread used to be part of the trousseau of Kata Bethlen, the wife of Mihály Apafi II, ruling prince of Transylvania. Here the arcades are created from lines of tiny flowers and semicircles; the pink and tulip stems in the middle and the large, crescent leaves of the base are tied with a double ring (see pict. 11). The tablecloth in the collection of the Matthias Church in Budapest 9 was sewn from five separate embroideries. The two borders are decorated with arcaded rows, presenting a tulip with two leaves in each arcade. The stems are tied with a ring. This tablecloth was also embroidered in Transylvania, in the middle of the 17th century. As we have already seen, the same or similar motifs were often embroidered with different techniques. As an illustration, we may mention the embroidery of two linen borders, with two alternating flower stem motifs in a wavy foliage. One was embroidered in polychrome silk and silver thread, with tiny counted stitches over a loosely woven base, while the base of the other is hashed, and the pattern is embroidered in white silk (see picts.12-13). Identical S-shaped foliage decorate the both the polychrome and the white linen borders. The embroideries were made in the middle of the 17th century. I would like to express my thanks to the management of the Budapest Museum of Applied Arts for giving me a chance with the above few lines to greet an excellent researcher of textile art and a dear friend, Mária Csernyánszky. Notes 1 Emlékkönyv Gerevich Tibor születésének 60. é\fordulójára (A Presentation Volume On The Occasion of The 60th Anniversary of Tibor Gerevich), Bp, 1942, p. 140. 2 V.Ember, Mária: Úrihimzés (Secular Embroidery), Bp, 1981, Notes 1-5. 3 V.Ember, Mária: see above, Note 7. 4 Palotay, Gertrúd: Régi erdélyi himzésminta-rajzok (Old Pattern Drawings From Transylvania). In. Erdélyi Tudományos Füzetek (Transylvanian Scientific Booklets, a periodical), Kolozsvár, 1941 p.131 5 V.Ember, Mária: see above, Cat.136, pict.70 6 V.Ember, Mária: see above, Cat.113, pict.52 7 V.Ember, Mária: A tax til gyűjtemény új hímzései (New Acquisitions Among the Embroideries of the Textile Collection). In. Fol. Arch. XXII, pp.219-232 8 V. Ember, Mária: see above, 1981, Cat.208, picts. 124-125 9 Csermelyi, Sándor: Magyar hímzések (Hungarian Embroideries) Bp, OMIM 1918, Cat.l27/a with pict.

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