Vadas József (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 10. (Budapest, 1991)

TOMPOS Lilla: A dolmányszabás módosulása a 16. századtól a 18. századig

purpian, karasia or damask.

9 The handdrawn pictures of a pattern-book published in Bregenz in 1660 depict the same two types of garment, complete with the cut of the trousers.

10 On the basis of its watermarks, the "Rissbüchel" of Retz has been dated from the late seventeenth century. It describes, without providing illustration, the dimensions and the material necessary for an atlas dolman and a scarlet mente.

11 In the early eighteenth century, two patternbooks were published in Linz which described the cut of dolmans and mentes : one was compiled in 1713 by Johannes Stöckhel,

12 the other in 1724 by Johannes M. Wolfsegger.

13 In Le Sieur Benist Boullay's work, which has already been mentioned, all parts of a dolman with tailored shoulders, a mente, a pair of trousers, and a high cap are laid out on two strips of fabric placed alongside each other. Such a method of giving details, as well as the curved cut of the shoulders, is unknown in the patterns used to make dolmans in the seventeenth century. Therefore, the system of tailoring to be described later was not used either.

14 Only one pattern-book is known from Eastern Europe. This originates from the town of Wschow in Poland, and dates from 1640. It includes a Hungarian subica and a variety of long-sleeved jacket cut at the waist. The patterns are drawn on top of each other.

15 The Museum of Applied Arts has four pattern-books, two of which contain designs exclusively worn by members of the Church.

16 Besides ecclesiastical vestments, patterns of a tent and a saddle-cloth, together with women's and men's clothing, can also be found in a book written in German and published in Kisszeben in 1641.

17 This work contains neither dolmans, nor mentes. On the "Janko Rock" drawing, the left front of the coat is shown together with the left sleeve, which is folded horizontally and fitted to the front. The tailoring of the waist and the shoulders is different from the cut of a dolman. The positions of the buttons are indicated, and the head of a man with a moustache is drawn above the neck. The diagram of the back is placed over the front, and the measures and the amount of material needed are also listed (Plate 3). The 1630 Kassa Pattern-Book was rewritten "for eternity's sake by Márton Rosnyai Sári Szabó on St. Martin's Day, 1717".

18 Coach hoods, saddle-cloths, garments for men and women, and ecclesiastical vestments were all included. To show Hungarian men's fashion, a subica and a mente were selected. As in the previous example, the left front, the back and the folded sleeve of the "burgher's dolman" are shown. The edge of the garment is marked with a broken line, the curve of the bottom has not been drawn in. The amount of material necessary is indicated, and the following explanation is included: "A burgher's dolman (or, in other words, a town coat) has a gathered back and a plain front" (Plate 4). The Sopron Pattern-Book, which includes masterworks, was compiled in 1679. The text was written in German.

19 Like the examples seen in the Polish book, the left fronts of two different garments were drawn on top of each other. A ruler and a pair of compasses were used in making the design shown in the diagram entitled "Der Ungerische Mentő". It shows two typical men's coats in the fashion of the seventeenth century-the dolman and the mente. The mehte's sleeve is short: it is tailored in such a way that it is curved at the elbow, and is slit at the shoulder. The sleeves of the dolman have flaps at the wrists. As we have already seen, the pieces are folded lengthways and are thus laid out next to the edges. Large numbers of close-set buttons are shown on the front and the sleeves. Triangle-shaped pieces of fabric join the sides. On the other page, the size and the amount of the fabric required are indicated: "Zum Dreizenden Ist dieser Un / gerische Mentő lang 7 Viertl, die weiden / Ist 4 Ein, der Mentő Erbel, mit Sampt den Rock / Erbel ist 5 Viertl lang darzu