William Penn Life, 1999 (34. évfolyam, 2-12. szám)
1999-06-01 / 6. szám
Vilmos’ Links I’m from the old school. The only links I know about are the ones you serve with pancakes. But, some of you may be interested in acquiring a copy of “Gundel’s Hungarian Cookbook.” If you are, good luck. Amazon.com, the on-line book seller, says Gundel’s book is out of print. That’s a surprise. The copy lent to me was printed in 1998 and was a 21st edition copy. This fine book is available, but rare. Check with your local bookstores. Or, try calling Magyar Marketing in Youngstown, Ohio, at I -800- 786-7851. Otto’s Hungarian Imports in Burbank, Calif., sells the book for $ 15.75 (plus S&H). Call (818) 845- 0433 or order it on-line at Otto’s website http:// member.aol.com/Hunglmprts. Tip of the Month "Don't neglect the final flavoring. I usually taste food which contains sugar, salt, vinegar six to eight times; after boiling l add this or that flavor. Taste the food carefidly, like a painter who checks his work from many angles." --Imre Gundel Treasured Recipes vith Cfluf When it comes to Hungarian cuisine, Gundd wrote the book A dear friend of ours, Branch 34 Coordinator Maria Bistey, recently lent us a wonderful book, "Gundel's Hungarian Cookbook" by Károly Gundel. If the author and his book are familiar to you, I'm not surprised. Gundel (1883-1956) was THE MAN to Hungarian chefs and restauranteurs. Some have called him the equal of the great Frenchman, Escoffier. Gundel founded Budapest's best restaurant, one which still bears his name and—happily—has been returned to its former glory by George Lang. Gundel's "small book," as he called it, was first published in 1934. It is THE primer on Hungarian cuisine. Its 150 recipes reflect the native and foreign influences on Hungarian cuisine. In several succinct pages at the beginning of the book, Gundel gives the reader an understanding of the cuisine and the ingredients which distinguish it from all others. "Today's Hungarian cuisine is a far cry from the one our ancestors carried over the Carpathian mountains a millennium ago," he writes. "Modern Hungarian cuisine, however, does carry the traces of the ancient past: some of the dishes of today are similar to those enjoyed in remote Asia, where the Magyar tribes originated." Of course, the one ingredient most closely associated with Hungarian cuisine is paprika. Both novice and experienced Hungarian cooks will find his reflections on paprika both enjoyable and informative. Many readers will be surprised to learn that some dishes they call gulyás are not actually gulyás, but one of three other popular Hungarian dishes which feature paprika. Gulyás lovers will find 11 varieties of their favorite dish here. They'll also discover another dozen recipes for dishes in the "gulyás family," including an excellent rendition of székely gulyás. The largest section of the book is devoted to meat dishes, including several of the house specialties that helped make Gundel's restaurant the destination for lovers of true Hungarian cuisine. No book on Hungarian cooking would be complete without recipes for palacsinta (crepes), and Gundel offers 10 mouth-watering variations. Check out his káposztás palacsinta (layered crepes). Wow! Gundel always considered himself a "Hungarian host, not an innkeeper . . . but one who receives respected guests in his house." That respect for those who dined in his restaurant clearly extended to the cuisine itself and all that this cuisine represented. "I strongly recommend a visit to Hungary to taste and savor the Hungarian flavors," he tells his readers. "Along with our excellent cuisine, the visitor should taste the wines of Badacsony, Eger and Tokaj. Listen and try to understand the gypsy music, our thousand years of history, our presentday problems and achievements." One can almost picture Gundel, standing at some mythical entrance to the Land of the Magyars, holding the door open for you with one arm and directing you inside with the other, and saying: "You are all welcome." — I want YOUR treasured recipes Do you have a great recipe for a traditional Hungarian dish or a longtime family favorite? I would love to share it with all my readers. Just send your treasured recipe to: Chef Vilmos, c/o William Penn Association, 709 Brighton Road, Pittsburgh, PA 15233. 10 William Penn life, June 1999
