Kovács Ferenc et al.: Fardagály és kámvás rokolya. Divat és illem a 19. században (Budapest, 2010)

Az öltözködés története 1840 - 1900

A History of Costume 1840-1900

Testvérpár, Becs, 1870-es évek Two siblings, Vienna, 1870s

rizs császárnéja”, a szép Eugenia uralma. Futva menekül a divatkirálynő, s neki, aki százszámra varratta a ruhákat és köpenyeket, most annyi ideje sincs, hogy rangjához illően felöltözhessék a nagy útra. Könnyű kendővel a vállán, kicsi ékszerdobozát szorongatva a hóna alatt, egy csigalépcsőn szökik meg az ünnepelt császárné, de az utolsó pillanatban szerencsésen elkerülte Mária Antónia sorsát. Kedvenc ruhaviseletét, a krinolint már egy évvel korábban elérte végzete. A turnűr és a szűk szoknya kiszorította. A turnűr, a szoknya alá helyezett lószőr párna - amit hazánkban fardagálynak is neveztek - természetellenes profilt kölcsönzött a hölgyeknek. Viszont a szabóknak lehetővé tette, hogy a

to dance with him because ofhis clothing. He’s on his way home in a dejected mood when he meets a German chum ofhis, who lends him a Hungarian suit. He goes back to the ball and all the girls are happy to dance with him now that he’s wearing the clothes ofhis German friend.

The tastes and fashions of the second half of the 19* century, known as Historism, is characterised by the revival and mixing of various historical styles. Museums mimic ancient Greek and Roman styles, churches copy gothic architecture, the theatre is reminiscent of the baroque period, while the architecture of mansions and apartment houses mainly follows the renaissance model. Fashion is also characterised by this cavalcade of styles. The motto, as put into words by the periodical Divatszalon, was: “Modern is everything that has been old since Charlemagne”. People wear Rembrandt hats with Robespierre collars and a Marie Antoinette fichu (a kind oflace neckerchief); Pompadour skirts with Mary Stuart bonnets. Decorative spirit is also overflowing. Dresses are practically covered in a myriad of braids, lace, pearl embroidery and garlands of flowers. Fashion changes at incredible speed. When a model has just begun to be widespread, another already supersedes it.

Transition from Crinoline to Tournure (1865-1868)

The first attempt to popularise a skirt length that made the shoes visible was in 1860, and the style reappears again in 1865. This style of dress known as the “genre canaille ', meaning something like “trashy style" in today’s language, was brash and according to the notions of the times positively flirtatious, but was by no means liked only by “trashy” women, but also by ladies from the best circles, headed by the Empress Eugenia herself On one occasion on a visit to Vi-Fűzős fehér női cipő, 1870-es évek, MNM White lady's shoe, laced, 1870s, HNM