Csapó Katalin - Éliás Tibor: Dobos és a 19. század cukrászata Magyarországon (Budapest, Magyar Kereskedelmi és Vendéglátóipari Múzeum, 2010)

CSAPÓ KATALIN: Cukrászat a 19. században - Kezdetek

Tragant figura a Ruszwurm cukrászdából, 19. század, Magyar Kereskedelmi és Vendégiátóipari Múzeum Tragacanth Figure from the Ruszwurm confectionary, 19

th century, Hungarian Museum of Trade and Tourism csűdfű levegőn megszáradó nedve, gumiszerű, ragacsos, folyékony anyag, amelyet cukorral összekeverve figurák készítésére használtak. Emberi fogyasztásra alkalmatlan, de évtizedekig eláll.) A díszmunkák alapján a cukrászatot nem annyira ipari tevékenységnek, hanem inkább művészetnek minősítették. Ez az oka annak is, hogy a mesterek soha nem tömörültek céhbe. A 18. század végén kezdődött szakosodás, és a főúri It is inedible but keeps for decades.) On the basis of their decorative work, confectionery was viewed less as a type of industrial activity, but more as a form of art; this is also the reason why the masters of the period never collaborated to form a guild. The production of confectionery items for sale to the public began at the end of the 18th century and developed in parallel with confectioners working within the households of the nobility. By this time boiled sweets, candied fruits, refreshing drinks, fruit syrups, preserves, fruit jellies, marzipan, sweet alcoholic drinks etc. were already being made to sell. The only baked, floury product was the „biscuit". The range of baked, floury products was widened by the „mandoletti bakers", who immigrated to Hungary from the Graubünden region of Switzerland, and who gradually merged into the confectioner community. The makers of these almond-based pastries from Graubünden plied their wares in the busier market towns and in the cities. This is one of the ways they appeared in Venice, amongst other places, where they proved to be competition for the Italians' popular trade. By the 17th century, their influence had strengthened to such an extent that they took on the leading role in the confectionery industry. In 1699, of the forty-two confectionery producing businesses in Venice, forty were owned by the Swiss. By 1766, the number of confectioners had risen to 203. In this year, Venice expelled the Graubündeners for reasons of foreign policy. As they were unable to continue their trade in their homeland, they migrated across Europe and settled down in other countries, including Hungary. Of the Swiss confectioners who arrived in Hungary, Bertalan Bertha, born in Ftan in the Swiss canton of Graubünden, was the first to acquire the right to 13