Rédey Judit: Hideg nyalat és spanyol tekercs. A fagylalt, a jégkrém és a parfé története (Budapest, 2007)
Nelli Melba, the "Nightingale of Australia," sang at the World Exposition of 1900 in Paris. Auguste Escoffier, a great gastronomer chef of the age, created an ice cream dessert in honor of the artist, which became known under the name „Peche Melba" (= Melba Peach). This refined sweet dainty was served in bowls. Its composition is as follows: peaches on vanilla ice cream, with sweet vanilla brandy, whipped cream on top, ornamented with slivered almonds. Wandering oriental sweet sellers already sold an iced drink made from fruit juices, called sherbet or sorbet during the Turkish occupation of Hungary. These craftsmen often carried their entire "workshop" on thenshoulders and heads. As of the 17 th century, ice cream types resembling fruit jelly were frozen in salted ice in copper molding. Its recipes were published in contemporary cookbooks. You can already find a recipe for ice cream in one of the oldest books on pastry cookery in the Hungarian language, written in longhand. Its author was no other than Zsuzsanna Apor, the wife of the Governor of Transylvania, daughter to writer Péter Apor. Another interesting recipe from a handwritten 1753 Transylvanian recipe book reads as follows: „Pour some cane honey to the juice of the squashed strawberries to make it sweet, and "fry" it in ice... until it's frozen." Confectioners in Hungary (mainly settlers from Northern Italy), called in those times the "delicacy makers" have made and sold ice cream as of the 18 Ih century. Cold sweets were featured in the menu of certain cafés from 1760, but those preparations were not identical to modern ice cream. The lemonade tents of the Danube bank of late 18 lh century Pest sold not only lemonade, but also fagyos (this archaic Hungarian expression could approximately be rendered into English as "icy.") The very first literary work on Pest-Buda 4 already mentions that form of ice cream. This verse account was published by the author József Gvadányi in 1790 under the title A village notary's trip to Buda 5 . The protagonist, the Notary of the Town of Peleske from Szatmár County, walks across the boat-bridge from Pest to Buda during his visit to the Capital, then turns into the café tent of the inn By the Bridge at the abutment for refreshments: J walked, then stopped by at the far end of the Bridge. Where on the left-hand side a beautiful Jent I sawe. Wherein many walkers-by amused themselves by their Moodes, Ordering Lemonade the one, the other icy sweetes." Prior to the 18 th century "language renovation movement" in Hungary, ice cream had been called under various names, such as hideg nyalat ("cold licks"), fagyait or fagyos (both of these archaic words could approximately be rendered into English as freezy or icy). The origins of the modern word/agylait (ice cream) are supplied by etymological dictionaries differently. Loránd Benkő's Etymological Dictionary says the modern Hungarian word for ice cream comes from 1775, while the verb fagylaltozik (to have or to consume ice cream) is reported from 1844. The Transylvanian Treasury of Historic Hungarian Words'' says it was used first
