Méri Edina: A Pápai Kluge-kékfestőműhely mintakönyvei (Textilmúzeum alapítvány 2003)

In Europe, at the end of the 18th century and at the beginning of the 19th century, in order to fasten the textile printing the use of roller print machines was also experimented but because of its high cost it did not become general in the smaller factories. Paralelly, the Perrotine machines (printing periodically) were coming out, first operated by hand, and later, with the penetration of the steam machines, operated mechanically. There were 5 indigo resist dyeing workshops operating in Pápa around 1865. The strongest one was the Kluge factory. In Hungary the Goldberger factory in Óbuda was the first to use the Perrotine machine in 1841, which assured the mass production and helped to be competitive with the foreign goods (Austrian, Czech, and Moravian). Naturally, the small domestic workshops were not competitive with them, and what kept them alive awhile was the demand of the farmers of the surrounding areas for traditional costumes. The boom of the economy, the industry, and the increasing of the trade in the middle and second part of the 19th century was motivating even the Kluge Company of Pápa to increase the capacity and to start the modernization. That was how the old dyeing room, the "küpa" room, was enlarged with the construction of 12 dyeing vats as a new factory building on the side of the brook in 1880. The printing room for the traditional hand-printing, the laboratory, and next to it the hand operated, wooden framed Perrotine machine could be found on the first floor. This equipment which made it possible to produce mass production required both the usage of printing blocks with new small patterns and that of printing blocks based on the old patterns. These were usually ordered from Austrian, Czech and Moravian centres. By the time of the 100th anniversary of the factory in 1883, the production developed to a level that could compete with the "Blaudruck-Färberei" factory, one of the leading companies of Transdanubia's factories. Naturally, the many perrotine patterns were collected into pattern books for the 100th anniversary (Pictures 130, 131). The jubilee handkerchiefs, which required precision, going back to old traditions by having the same patterns on both sides and with two facing deer, were also serving the propaganda. A masterpiece, a 12-person, 5-colour-print table-cloth was made for this event (Picture 63). The sizes of the jubilee table-cloth (linen): 153 cm wide and 258 cm long. On the table-cloth, with the colours of its double borders there are two individuals carrying a huge bunch of grapes, which is showing a biblical story. It reminds us of the searching of the land of the Canaan trying to be reached by Moses' people. The symbol of wealth, the bunch of grapes carried on the pole is still part of today's vintage festivals. The indigo resist printers could see these patterns on the ceiling of churches of Calvinist villages, as well as on plates, on honey-cake, etc. On the other hand, many times the journeymen arriving to the area of Saxony could work with them. Several other biblical stories were seen on table-cloths, on bed linens with blue and white decoration. The more detailed introduction of the subject can be found in specialized literature of Eastern Germany (BACHMANN-REITZ 1961). The borders of the oil-printing pattern books are interesting and also forming a separate group (Pictures 64-129). The white, blue and white, yellow and white, etc. borders were printed on light pages leaving approximately the same size of margins around, giving a nicer look to the book. The total print of the longer printing blocks was held up by covering one side with a paper according to the margin. Some of them got printed