Méri Edina: A Pápai Kluge-kékfestőműhely mintakönyvei (Textilmúzeum alapítvány 2003)

more colour-proof indigo was used to repair woad, later the latter became dominant in the 19th century. The children of the Saxon masters settied down in Hungary. Naturally, during their migration they visited the areas of Saxony and Thuringia, partly to keep in touch with their relatives and also to get familiar with the new technologies. Carl, the son of Johann Friedrich Kluge, who settled in Sárvár in 1777, prepared a recipe book in the Saxon Sorau in 1782 for the printing and the chemicals used for colour dyeing with the sign: "Farbe-Buch von Carl Friedrich Kluge Färber-Gesell von Sorau in Sachsen Anno 1782". When he arrived home he established a workshop in Sárvár in 1783 and two years later resettled in Pápa to today's plot and workshop of the Kékfestő Múzeum [Museum of Blue Dyeing]. His son, just like his father, aside from collecting recipes during his journeys, in order to reach his technical goals even brought a small pattern book with the title page: "Muster-Buch vor Carl Kluge Lindow de 24-ten Septbr. 1809." We can recognize 72 small textile pieces in it in colour print. The wooden blocks of these patterns were probably used in the Kluge workshop as the tools of hand block printing. These two pattern books were analysed by textile analysts around 1980 and they stated that it showed knowledge way above the technical average. The ambitious, experienced and well-skilled masters won grade and reputation for the workshop in the first decades of the indigo resist dyeing booming period. An evidence of it is the signboard of the dyers' of Pápa (Pictures 3, 4). A receipt of its repair remained in the documentation of the company from 1818 with the handwriting of Károly Gog, painter: "The job that was prepared for the clothes dyer journeymen of Pápa, repainting of the sign board for 3 Forints, which is three Forints". So the journeymen lodging's sign-board could be installed on the elevation of the Kluge workshop to show that the most prestigious dyeing company was operating in the house. At around the same time other masters were working in the town and by 1865 there were already 5 companies, which proved the escalation of this industry and completion of the fashion. The material collected from the pattern books (Pictures 61, 62) provides a good look into the workshop's development and into the changing of the fashion. Going through the pattern books it seems that part of them can be connected to the company's 50th, 75th and 100th anniversaries. This is where we arrive, when we see that these copies are not worn, which should be natural when customers are trying to choose from the samples. Anyhow, the single orders were usually made by a kerchief with patterns used in the shop. Of course, if a reseller appeared, the pattern books were also looked through so that they could serve the increasing variety of the ethnic requirements and the demands of the townships. In 1865, the Kluge Company prepared a small map showing the places of the market area with the distance from Pápa. In all, there were 18 places shown on the map in the distance of 30-50 km: from the area of the county of Veszprém, Vas, Sopron and Győr. Naturally, orders could be placed on the fairs as well but usually they used the kerchiefs with patterns or the goods which were taken to the fair as samples. The first pattern book was the previously mentioned "Muster-Buch" from 1809. We will publish the title page and two nice colourful pages although it contains 72 samples (Pictures 9-11). The content of the recipes, mordant and chemicals was recorded for the colour positive print but its applications had a role at the preparation of the printing