Endrei Walter szerk.: Textilipari Múzeum Évkönyve 8. 1995 (Budapest, 1995)

dr. Márta Járó: Manufacturing technique of gold threads and their imitations on museum textiles - chronology of the preparation of metal threads. Results of the scientific investigations

Fig. 3 Wire-drawing without a draw­plate (streching?) (From the Men­delschen Stiftungsbuch, 1389). Fig. 4 Wire-drawing with a draw-plate (From the Mendelschen Stiftungsbuch, 1527). Consequently it can be assumed that a changing of technique occured around the first millennium or even earlier, in course of which - according to my assumption - not only strips cut of foil, but also strips hammered from drawn and then stretched wires were used for the preparation of gold threads. Opinions vary in the special literature regarding the length of the period when metal threads prepared from gold or gold-alloy have been used. Ac­coding to the analyses carried out up to now [65], the end of this period may be put at the 13-14th century. Metal threads made of gilt silver Based on the investigation data, gilt silver strip wound around a silk yarn had been used already from the 8-9th century for embreoideries and weav­ings [41, 42], however its use became common only much later, in the 13­14th century. The latest gilt silver threads analyzed by me dated from the 19th century [65], however, their use occured even at the beginning of the 20th century. The preparation technique changed during thousand years, the strips cut from gilt silver foils (gold covers only one side of the silver strip) were suc­ceeded by strips flattened from gilt silver wire, where gold layer can be found on both side of the silver strip. Publications on history of textiles,

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