Weiner Mihályné szerk.: Az Iparművészeti Múzeum Évkönyvei 9. (Budapest, 1966)

IPARMŰVÉSZETI MÚZEUM — MUSÉE DES ARTS DECORATIFS - Horváth, Vera: Kashmir Shawls in the Museum of Applied Arts

pattern book. The sectional dyeing of the warps of another shawl (fig. 18.) also suggest Indian origin. The main field is bordered by a double border and embellished with large corner decorations; in addition to the cone appearing as a large conventionalized tulip, the double border also contains meandering and fan-shaped flowers. Without any comparable material of similar quality with no doubt about its place of origin, these two shawls cannot be localized with absolute certainty and their Indian origin may be assumed. A cover (fig. 19.) made in Europe, probably in France, in the second half of the XlXth century, deserves to be mentioned on account of its very different basic plain weave, as well as of its design poor in invention and phantasy. A semi-circular shawl woven in Turkey about 1870 is a most remarkable imitation (fig. 20.). On this piece Kashmir ornamentation appears in its most abstract form, with an intricate pattern strongly curled up on both ends, made with brocade technique. Decorated with typical Kashmir ornamentation, the remaining pieces of the collection are mechanically made imitations which might just as well have been fabricated in the XXth century in the Near or Far East for touristic purposes. The most important phases of development in Kashmir shawl manufacturing of the XlXth century are represented by the pieces described on figs. 1—20 and belonging to the collection of the Museum of Applied Arts in Budapest; these pieces lend themselves for illustrating this kind of artistic practice of the period.