Dobrovits Aladár szerk.: Az Iparművészeti Múzeum Évkönyvei 3-4. (Budapest, 1959)

HOPP FERENC KELETÁZSIAI MŰVÉSZETI MÚZEUM - Ervin Baktay: Report on a vovage of study to India 1956/57

1 spent a couple of months in this city, and my second visit only revived old memories. Most valuable experience was offered to me by a visit to the Sanskrit Institute. From Mysore I went to Shravana Belgola. Many a difficult trip was made by me during this recent sojourn in India, but I shall never forget the trying circumstances of my visit to that place. The X

th century Jain monuments at Shravana Belgola are of extreme importance, but it is a strenuous task to reach them — unless the visitor can afford to hire a car and make the trip of about 160 kilometers from Mysore in comfort, returning to this city at nightfall. As 1 did not belong to the richly endowed tourists, and intended to spend more than one day at Shravana Belgola, I had plenty opportunity to get acquainted with the difficulties connected with the trip, and the conditions prevailing at the place. The regular public bus did not cost much, but it was a woeful experience to be shaken for six hours in the crowded vehicle, what with the heat and half naked, perspiring passengers . . . After having reached Shravana Belgola, no acceptable accomodation was to be found, until the keeper of the Jain Pilgrim's Resthouse offered me a small chamber without any comforts, not even the possibility to have a proper wash. Food was available only at the not-too-clean Bazaar stalls, and I decided rather to go without meals for a couple of days. Yet the X

th century Jain temples on the adjacent hills and, first of all, the colossal statue of Gommateshwara, cut out of the solid rock on top of the higher hill (Fig. 6/a

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6/b.), consoled me for all my troubles. But it cannot be denied that it was with a feeling of relief, when on the third day 1 saw Shravana Belgola fading away in the distance behind me . . . Visiting Halebid and Belur was not much easier, and I felt utterly exhausted when the latter place was finally reached. The rich plastic works of the temples at Halebid, representing the art of the Hoysalas at its best, and the fine sculptures of Belur, had to make up for the fatigue, and I did not feel sorry for having visited them. Yet it w

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ould be praiseworthy if the Government of India should do something in order to make the approach of such important monuments a bit easier. After leaving Belur 1 took the train at Hassan for Bombay, but stopped at Lonawla. It is a pleasant health resort, surrounded by fine hilly sceneries. From Lonawla several cave temples can be reached. There is quite a climb up to Karle Caves, but the trouble taken is compensated by the high class sculptures dating from the II

nd and I

st centuries B. C., especially by the reliefs representing probably the Donators, a work of art full of life and power, inspite of the smoothness of forms. The Bhaja Cave Temple, situated on the slope of another rocky hill, is even more instructive, with its slanting pillars, reminiscent of the ancient wood structures, and the impressive reliefs in the porch of a smaller cave. From Lonawla I proceeded to Bombay and spent there about a w

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eek, visiting the Museums. The Bombay Museums are, as far as modern methods are concerned, much more advanced than those mentioned before ; especially the rich collection of old textiles at the Prince of Wales Museum is exhibited in an excellent and instructive manner. Paying a visit to the Bombay University, I spent the rest of my time enjoying the cool sea water after the strain undergone during the preceding weeks. At the beginning of April I reached Ahmedabad where it was a pleasure to see again the noble XIV

th century Mussalman buildings and mosques, constructed in a decidedly Hindu style.