Magyar News, 1992. szeptember-1993. augusztus (3. évfolyam, 1-12. szám)

1993-05-01 / 9. szám

THIS YEAR BRINGS BACK THOUGHTS OF LAST YEAR

IMPRESSIONS ON A TRIP TO HUNGARY IN 1992

by Louis Kardos

BUDAPEST: The buildings in B udapest are old and grand with beautiful architecture, mostly baroque and Gothic. The years of neglect under communism was evident in that they needed cleaning, and much refurbishing and renovation. Indeed, we saw construction and repairing going on. We went to a large flea market on the outskirts, everything imaginable was there—many things Russian, like army hats, insignia, service pins, decorations and ribbons. It was said that when the Russian troops were called home, they sold everything they could lay their hands on. We went to a good restaurant where we had a fine meal for about 5 U.S. dollars. We walked around famous streets of Budapest, Váci St., Rákóczi Blvd., and Andrassy St. We saw McDonald’s, Burger King and Dunkin Donuts also. A large section of Vaci St. is strictly for walking—no vehicular traffic. This area was lined with beautiful shops, stores, restaurants, and night clubs. Outside vendor stands were everywhere. It was just a short walk to the Danube, and we strolled on the wide promenade alongside the river where tour boats lined the banks. We walked across the Lánc (Chain) bridge also known as the Széchényi bridge to the Buda side. This is the most beautiful of the 8 bridges that span the Danube, very ornate and lit up at night. The dominant sight on the Buda side is Buda Castle, high up on a hill, now a library and art museum. Budapest is a vibrant old city with fast traffic and busy people, very orderly. The public transportation system is efficient and also fast. The pedestrians obey the walk lights and the streets are clean. The escalators are faster than in the U.S.A.

We went down town and joined an Ibusz Travel Co. bus tour. On the back of each seat were 12 jacks where you could plug in your headset for 12 different languages. The tour lasted 3 hours and took us to the very exclusive tree lined Andrassy St. Many great composers and music conductors either lived here or taught nearby such as Franz Liszt, Kodály, Bartók and others. We learned that the first metro on the European continent was here in Budapest, built in the late 1800’s. At Hero’s square we saw heroic monuments and statues. Two Hungarian soldiers guarded the war memorial, we watched their slow precision steps back and forth. Here too were many vendors selling lace, T-shirts, etc. I saw a T-shirt that said “Wanted - Karl Marx - Dead or Alive.” The tour bus then took us to the top of Gellert Hill, the highest point in Budapest, where the view of the river, bridges, the city, and

Parliament building was outstanding. The next stop was Castle Hill, or Buda Castle, or Buda Palace. This area, known by all three names, is where the royalty used to live. We

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went inside the magnificent Mathias church builtinthe 13th and 14th century. Nearby is the very scenic Fisherman’s Bastion. Close to that in the square, is a great statue of King Stephan the First, on a horse in a heroic pose. He united the Magyar tribes back in 1000 A.D. to form the Hungarian nation. We took many pictures in this photographers’ paradise. Some of the buildings on Castle Hill had bullet holes and shell fragment marks from WWII and the 1956 uprising. One building in particular had many such marks, and I think they intend to leave it as a memorial. Across the Danube was the Magnificent Parliament building, with 691 rooms and 365 spires. It was here on Oct. 25, that a crowd petitioning Imre Nagy, was fired on by A VO sharpshooters, making the 1956 uprising inevitable.

We ate at McDonald’s to compare it to ours. The place was absolutely spotless including the rest rooms. There was a group of kids having a party, painting their faces and having a great time! There was a Hungarian in a clown costume conducting the party, and it could have been in America the way the children were laughing and the parents beaming! The hamburgers were a little juicier and not as dried out as here. Incidentally, their coffee was also strong.

We took the cable car which takes people up the steep hill to Buda Castle. This was built in 1870, was damaged during WWII and for many years was not in use. But the public demanded it and it was electrified and there is always a line of people. Our first stop was the immense Buda Palace. It had been rebuilt three times after damage suffered during wars. The Nazis had used it as a command headquarters during the last war. There was some excavation in the rear where some old Roman ruins and previous palace ruins were being uncovered. While looking at some deep wells that were used a thousand years ago during a war, we met an interesting man from NY City. He comes to Hungary every time he needs expensive dental work done. He said he can get the same work done in Hungary cheaper than in NY even counting air fare. Next we went to the Hilton Hotel which the guide books said was the most elegant hotel in Budapest. Ruins of an old 13th century church are inside the Hilton, in such a way that it adds to the beauty of the hotel. Then we walked around the residential area away from the tourist shops, photographing beautiful entrances and doorways. Near the Vienna gate we came upon another 13th century church that was bombed to destruction during WWII. Only the front entrance wall was standing. Nearby was the National Archives with many bullet holes from the war and the 1956 revolution. Dinner time found us in an unusual restaurant about 3 levels below the

street. We had to go along catacomb-like tunnels, winding all over. As usual the meal was excellent and reasonable.

I had cut my scalp and now had to get the stitches out. We walked to Margaret Hospital where the stitches were removed promptly, no form to fill out and no charge. They just took my name, age, and where we were staying. What a system! The whole thing took about 1 1/4 hours from the time we left the house.

HERNÁDVÉCSE: We left by car for my cousins’ home in Hemádvécse in northwest Hungary close to the Slovak border. We were on a high speed road similar to our Interstates, speed limit 120 kilometers per hour (75 mph). Most of the cars that we saw are small cars. And most are Ladas (Russian made), Skodas (Czech made), a few Escorts and Volkswagons - no large cars at all. We stopped to buy benzine (gas), sold by the liter at almost $4.00 per gallon! At one point we switched off to a lesser road which took us through small villages where we had to dodge cows that walked in the road. In the village of Hemádvécse the houses are quaint and have wrought iron fences across the front with entrance gates for both vehicles and people. There are no garages and no cars are left on the very narrow street. Dogs are constantly barking, chickens clucking, and roosters crowing even late in the day. On top of a pole next to a church we saw a huge stork’s nest. We proceeded up a hill to a cemetery which was quite overgrown with weeds and bushes. Apparently, it is not the custom in Hungary to manicure cemetery lawns. Ends of the houses in Hemádvésce face the street. The entrances are on the side of the house next to the driveway. In my cousins house, there were 4 doors to enter the house. The rooms are all in one line, the lots are long and narrow. Everyone has grapes, chickens, dogs, cats, pigs and cows. To the rear of the sheds in the back, they have gardens where the food staples are grown. Every family seems entirely self-sufficient as far as food is concerned.

MISKOLC, the 2nd largest city in Hungary: The main thoroughfare was for pedestrians and trams only, no cars. We went to a park and had a great meal for five people for 1500 forints, a little over $2.00 per person. My cousin said that everything in Miskolc was cheaper than in Budapest. We went home, talked and had more great food and drink (Hungarians don’t seem to drink water). After supper we all watched the American movie “Witness” on their color TV/VCR, dubbed in Hungarian.

We went to a remarkable old church in

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