É. Apor (ed.): Stein, Aurel: Old Routes of Western Iran. (Budapest Oriental Reprints, Ser. B 2.)

Chapter II. —In Kohgalu Tracts

Sec. ii] BEHBEHÄN AND ARRAJÄN BRIDGE 77 water supply from the above-mentioned canal was accessible. Though our tents narrowly escaped being swamped, and communication with the places whence supplies were to be obtained presented difficulties, there was reason to feel grateful for being at some distance from the town, which is notorious for its insects, local diseases, etc. For the delay incurred there were some compensating advantages. While all this ' water of mercy ', to use the emphatic Persian phrase, was descending upon Behbehän there was a chance of disposing of a great deal of writing work arising from the receipt of the heavy mails of a month which had greeted me on arrival. More important it was that our prolonged stay at Behbehän enabled me to gain closer contact than might have been possible otherwise with Colonel Zindeh-dil Khän, the very able and energetic local administrator. It was largely due to the friendly interest taken by this far-travelled and well-instructed officer in the scientific objects of my journey that through his effective help it became possible to have all needful arrangements made about escort and guidance in the Kohgalu hills to the north. Most of the ground there still remained practically unmapped, and the fact of the settlement of the local tribes having been achieved only recently might well have given rise to objections. When a visit to the town allowed me to return the calls of the half-dozen minor local officials received immediately after my arrival, it was pleasant to note that a variety of useful improvements in the town, effected during the year since the Colonel's assumption of office, justified the praise they had given him for the achievements by which life had been lightened in this otherwise trying place of quasi-exile.