É. Apor (ed.): Stein, Aurel: Old Routes of Western Iran. (Budapest Oriental Reprints, Ser. B 2.)

Chapter II. —In Kohgalu Tracts

6 8 IN KOHGALU TRACTS [Chap. II present, became visible from the ridge which, descending from a precipitous range to the east, forms the watershed between the Khairäbäd and Kurdistän rivers. Before reaching the top of the ridge, where decayed dwellings and graves mark a halting-place known as Pir Mullah, there could be sighted stretches of the old road which, coming from the direction of the ruined bridges, skirts the foot of the range. It is probable that it originally con­tinued to the north-west towards the old site of Arrajän town, which preceded Behbehän as a local centre and emporium of trade down to medieval times. A ruined tower, perhaps of early date, together with two old cisterns, were passed at the eastern edge of the cultivated plain. A conspicuous tower sighted some miles off to the north marked the place known as Tang-4-äb, whence Behbehän derives its scanty supply of running water through a qanät. Other canals underground taking off at the mouth of the same gorge were said to have fallen into decay in the past. If restored, they might, as in earlier historical times, assure abundant resources to the Behbehän tract and its rather poor town. My stay at Behbehän, a far from attractive place, was prolonged beyond expectation by a succession of rainy days such as the oldest inhabitants were said to declare unprecedented. With short interruptions downpours con­tinued over four days, until the rich soil of the wide valley plain turned into an expanse of tenacious mud, set off by glistening sheets of water. Our camp had been pitched well away from the town on a bare patch of clay beyond the small garden where the military governor had his modest office and quarters and where the only tolerably safe

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