Achaeometrical Research in Hungary II., 1988

BIBLIOGRAPHY - SUMMARIES - ANALYSES

Járó M., Tóth A., Gondár E.: Reconstruction of the gilding techniques used for medieval membrane threads in museum textiles = In Archaeometry 90, Birkhäuser Verlag, Basel (19..) 317-325. Membrane threads form a special group of metal threads used for weaving and embroidery in the Middle Ages. Organic support of animal origin, as leather, parchment or animal gut were gilded in different ways, cut into narrow (0.3-1.5 mm) strips and used flat or wound around a fibrous core (silk, linen, cotton etc.). Morphological and material test Results show that the gilding of leather was carried out either with gold leaves or with gold powder. In the case of animal gut gilt silver leaves were found attached onto the organic support. Járó M M Tóth A.: Scientific identification of European metal thread manufacturing techniques of the 17-19th centuries = Endeavour, New Series, Vol.15., No. 4 (1991) 175­184. The elaborate embellishment of textiles by the incorporation of fine metallic threads ­especially threads based on gold, silver and copper - was well established in classical times. The article discusses how the nature of the techniques used for making the threads in a particular artefact can be deduced from detailed physical analysis of the threads themselves. Description is given on the following metal thread types used in Europe in the 17-19th centuries: both side gilt silver strips and their variations wound around a silk core, gilt and silvergilt copper wires and strips and their variations wound around a fibrous core, wires and strips made of brass and of copper covered with brass and their variations wound around a fibrous core. Járó M., Gondár E., Tóth A.: Technical revolutions in producing gold threads used for European textile decoration = Antiquités Nationales, Mémoire 2, Saint-Germain-en-Laye (1993) 119-124. The morphology of the metal threads did not change very much during the history of textiles decorated with metal thread, but the manufacturing technique developed a significantly. These changes may be considered small technical revolutions. Using different scientific Investigation methods the improvement in techniques can be detected. Járó M., Tóth A.: Genuine or False? Investigation of Metal-printed Textiles dated to the 11-15th Centuries = ICOM Committee for Conservation, 10th Triennial Meeting, Washington, Preprints Vol. I (1993) 20-24. The scanning electron microscopy and energy dispersive X-ray analysis of nineteen 'gold' and 'silver' printed textiles dated to the 11-15th centuries revealed that all but three were printed with brass or tin powder. In the case of the three exceptions, silver-gold alloys with relatively high gold content were identified. According to the Results of the staining tests, proteinaceous and resinous materials were used for fixing the metal powder onto the surface of the textile yarn. Whether or not the examined textiles, or part of them are forgeries, cannot yet be determined. Further investigations are needed. 302

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