Petercsák Tivadar - Berecz Mátyás (szerk.): Tudomány és hagyományőrzés - Studia Agriensia 26. (Eger, 2008)
KATONAI HAGYOMÁNYŐRZÉS A 21. SZÁZADBAN - LOVÁSZ EMESE: A 14. századi női viselet rekonstrukciója
Lovász Emese THE RECONSTRUCTION OF 14TH CENTURY WOMEN’S COSTUME The Diósgyőr Knightly Order of the Golden Spur was founded in 1994 at Louis the Great’s castle in Diósgyőr. Its aim was to present 14th century courtly costumes and customs within the context of the medieval tournament. It was the miniatures of the Hungarian Picture Chronicle (Budapest, Országos Széchényi Könyvtár, Cod. Lat. 404) that provided the greatest help. Although the illuminator painted the characteristic figures of the Angevin period in courtly, knightly or priestly attire, there are very few representations of courtly women, and even when they are depicted they tend to be swathed in a large mantel. We decided to extend our research to the so-called Manesse Codex (Heidelberg, Universitätsbibliothek, Codex Palatinus Germanicus 848), as well as to contemporary wall paintings, panel paintings, tapestries and other artefacts. We consulted the rich Italian material, as Louis the Great and the flower of the Hungarian aristocracy spent several years in Italy during the course of the king’s two military campaigns in Naples. There they came into contact with proto-Renaissance ideas and experienced their effects. We have made a simplified version of a Burgundian conical hennin, as women’s costumes in Hungary were understated and characterised by “clear profiles”. Using the Hungarian elements in the wall paintings at Runkelstein Castle we made our first series of women’s costumes. During the course of our research we didn’t ignore the archaeological finds, whether that be clothing, belts, straps or jewellery. We also went to some lengths to find the most suitable materials, and once the clothing had been finished we went about having footwear made, based on the leather shoes found at the castles in Buda and Diósgyőr. 158
