Nyakas Miklós szerk.: Hajdúsági Múzeum Évkönyve 3. (Hajdúböszörmény, 1977)

Customs of Food-Preservation in the Town Hajdúböszörmény the Turn of the 20th Century

Imre Dankó CUSTOMS OF FOOD-PRESERVATION IN THE TOWN OF HAJDÚBÖSZÖRMÉNY THE TURN OF THE 20TH CENTURY This paper gives a description of the customs of food-preservation in the biggest Heyducktown, Hajdúböszörmény (Hajdú-Bihar County, 30 thousand inhabitants) at the turn of the 20th century. The period round the turn of this century was chosen for description for the important reason that at this time the popular culture of the town, including traditions connected with food and eating, were still fairly archaic, not much affected by various urban influences. In addition, the above period is still more or less within the reach of human memory, which facilitates the scholar's work considerably. At the turn of this century the majority of the population of Hajdúböszörmény made their living from agriculture, with animal breeding also playing an important part. Shepherding on the Hortobágy in the vicinity and on the town's large pasture lands in this period had an important effect on eating customs in general, and on food-preservation in particular. At the turn of the 20th century the people of Hajdúböszörmény were more or less selfsupporting; they did not rely on shops for food, only for salt and sugar. They prepared their food themselves, and preserved it with their own methods. These methods where, however, not specific only to this town but, with slight modifications, could be in the whole of contemporary Eastern Hungary as well. It is pointed out in the paper that the people of Hajdúböszörmény at the turn of the century, as a rule, tried to avoid having to resort to the preservation of food, and whenever it was possible they preferred to use fresh foodstuffs in preparing the meals they ate. This policy was however impossible to follow in the case of large amounts of vegetable foodstuffs, part of which it was necessary to keep for later use. Similary, they had to keep for later use large amounts of meat (e.g., after pig-killing). It is also stated in the paper that in food-preservation the difference between well-to-do and rich people was only quantitative. A further difference is made between short-term food-preservation (in summer, for re dycooked meals) and long-term food-preservation (in winter, for foodstuffs). According to another classification offered in the paper we know of preserving foodstuffs and readycooked food. It is pointed out that in many cases the way of preparing food itself shows signs of preservation (e.g., cooking, baking). Both in the case of shortterm and of long-term food-preservation the author gives separate descriptions of the following methods used: cooling, heating (frying, cooking, drying), smoking, salting, plickling, sweetening, sealing from the air, and pressing. In the description of the above methods special attention is given to the procedures that have developed various implements, containers, buildings (e.g., dryins-bars, clamps, egg-stands, etc.). It is pointed out that the methods of food-preservation were frequently combined (e.g., salting and drying meat, etc.). In the presentation of the various methods used in food-preservation the author proceeds from the simple forms (e.g., storing in pits) to more developed procedures at the turn of the century (e.g., a description is given of the various types of pits: pits for wheat, suggarbeet, ice, etc.). It is stated that in a number of cases the storing of crops is a method of preservation (e.g., the clamping of potatoes). In the course of the presentation of the various methods used in food-preservation the author describes several customs that are closely connected with it (e.g., feast at pig-killing, the processing of milk, the preparation of concentrates, purees, etc.). In the treatment of procedures used in food-preservation the author points out that the methods are determined by the season (winter, summer etc.), the weather (cold, hot, humid, etc.), the periodicity in agricultural work, and the level of education of the people. The author concludes by stating that food-preservation at the turn of the 20th century in the town of Hajdúböszörmény was already in a state of transition and the changes in food-preservation reflect the social and economic development that affected the way of life of the people in the town. 235'