Fülöp Gyula (szerk.): Festschrift für Jenő Fitz - Szent István Király Múzeum közleményei. B. sorozat 47. (Székesfehérvár, 1996)

E. Alföldi-Rosenbaum: Womens Mantles with Decorated Borders

Figs. 7a, b: Small Headless Bust of a Woman. Bucarest, Musée National des Antiquités. Photos courtesy of Mme Maria Alexandrescu Vianu, Academia Romana, Institu­tul de Arheologie. over the chest is also seen on consular diptychs showing the consul wearing an overall patterened trabea, for example Areo­­bindus."31 The decoration on the mantles of type B is on the “balteus” and on the border falling over the right shoulder, called "Brücke" by Delbrueck. A very similar arrangement ap­pears on the small bust of lapis lazuli-coloured glass in Cologne, which has been identified - not convincingly in my opinion - with the young Constantius II by J. Bracker.1141 H. Wrede,1151 who also doubts the identification, rightly notes that the decoration does not have to refer to the toga picta of a consul and mentions as a parallel the portrait of a boy in the clipeus of a sarcophagus with amorini in the Vatican, Museo Gregoriano Profano (formerly Lateran), Matz-Duhn 2270. An example of the simple trabea costume for women is the seated Anicia Iuliana on the title page of the Vienna Dios­­corides,"61 which is comparable to the pieces of group B with (13) Liverpool ivory: Delbrueck, Consulardiptychen 223 ff. N 58, de­tail, fig. 1 on p. 223; Volbach, Elfenbeinarbeiten Nr. 59, PI. 32. - Areobindus: Delbrueck 107 ff. N 9-15; on the costume, which is not identical on all of them, “Vorbemerkungen” p. 109; Volbach Nos. 8-13, Pis. 4-6. - On the consular toga see Delbrueck, chapter "Grade des Togakostüms", 4. “Das einfache Trabeakostüm” (in­cluding the Liverpool ivory), and 5. “Das triumphale Trabea­kostüm", pp. 52 ff. regard to the “balteus” and “Brücke”, but has no embroidery. 1. The costume of the bust of the London ivory carving is a representative of this type. (Figs. 1-2) 2. The type occurs on gold glass medallions, e.g. in the Vati­can, Ch. R. Morey, The Gold-Glass Collection of the Vatican Library, with Additional Catalogues of Other Gold-Glass Collec­tions, Vatican City 1959, No. 9, PL I: "Balteus”, "Hänge­streifen” and “Brücke” are decorated with a scroll, double like on our Nos. A 3 and D (Carnuntum statue). The coiffure which shows the hair puffed out at the neck where it is taken up in a Scheitelzopf, narrow at the top, points to the second quarter of the third century. Further examples; Morey No. 97, Pl. XVI (couple and their two daughters, poorly preserved); and, not quite identical, Nos. 89 and 92, Pl. XV. Morey calls the women’s mantle “(em­broidered) palla”, but the similar mantle of the husband of No. 7 “silver pallium with contabulatio”. (14) J. Bracker, “Zur Ikonographie Constantins und seiner Söhne” in: O. Doppelfeld - J. Bracker, Zwei Kaiserporträts aus Glas in Köln (Schriftenreihe der Archäologischen Gesellschaft Köln 14=Son­derdruck aus KölnJbVFrühGesch 8, 1965/66) Berlin 1966, 18 ff. Pis. 7. 9. (15) H. Wrede, Die spätantike Hermengalerie von Welschbillig (Römis­ch-Germanische Forschungen 32) Berlin 1972, 99 note 60. (16) Delbrueck, Consulardiptychen, p. 56. fig. 22. 110

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