Fülöp Gyula (szerk.): Festschrift für Jenő Fitz - Szent István Király Múzeum közleményei. B. sorozat 47. (Székesfehérvár, 1996)
E. Alföldi-Rosenbaum: Womens Mantles with Decorated Borders
Figs. 7a, b: Small Headless Bust of a Woman. Bucarest, Musée National des Antiquités. Photos courtesy of Mme Maria Alexandrescu Vianu, Academia Romana, Institutul de Arheologie. over the chest is also seen on consular diptychs showing the consul wearing an overall patterened trabea, for example Areobindus."31 The decoration on the mantles of type B is on the “balteus” and on the border falling over the right shoulder, called "Brücke" by Delbrueck. A very similar arrangement appears on the small bust of lapis lazuli-coloured glass in Cologne, which has been identified - not convincingly in my opinion - with the young Constantius II by J. Bracker.1141 H. Wrede,1151 who also doubts the identification, rightly notes that the decoration does not have to refer to the toga picta of a consul and mentions as a parallel the portrait of a boy in the clipeus of a sarcophagus with amorini in the Vatican, Museo Gregoriano Profano (formerly Lateran), Matz-Duhn 2270. An example of the simple trabea costume for women is the seated Anicia Iuliana on the title page of the Vienna Dioscorides,"61 which is comparable to the pieces of group B with (13) Liverpool ivory: Delbrueck, Consulardiptychen 223 ff. N 58, detail, fig. 1 on p. 223; Volbach, Elfenbeinarbeiten Nr. 59, PI. 32. - Areobindus: Delbrueck 107 ff. N 9-15; on the costume, which is not identical on all of them, “Vorbemerkungen” p. 109; Volbach Nos. 8-13, Pis. 4-6. - On the consular toga see Delbrueck, chapter "Grade des Togakostüms", 4. “Das einfache Trabeakostüm” (including the Liverpool ivory), and 5. “Das triumphale Trabeakostüm", pp. 52 ff. regard to the “balteus” and “Brücke”, but has no embroidery. 1. The costume of the bust of the London ivory carving is a representative of this type. (Figs. 1-2) 2. The type occurs on gold glass medallions, e.g. in the Vatican, Ch. R. Morey, The Gold-Glass Collection of the Vatican Library, with Additional Catalogues of Other Gold-Glass Collections, Vatican City 1959, No. 9, PL I: "Balteus”, "Hängestreifen” and “Brücke” are decorated with a scroll, double like on our Nos. A 3 and D (Carnuntum statue). The coiffure which shows the hair puffed out at the neck where it is taken up in a Scheitelzopf, narrow at the top, points to the second quarter of the third century. Further examples; Morey No. 97, Pl. XVI (couple and their two daughters, poorly preserved); and, not quite identical, Nos. 89 and 92, Pl. XV. Morey calls the women’s mantle “(embroidered) palla”, but the similar mantle of the husband of No. 7 “silver pallium with contabulatio”. (14) J. Bracker, “Zur Ikonographie Constantins und seiner Söhne” in: O. Doppelfeld - J. Bracker, Zwei Kaiserporträts aus Glas in Köln (Schriftenreihe der Archäologischen Gesellschaft Köln 14=Sonderdruck aus KölnJbVFrühGesch 8, 1965/66) Berlin 1966, 18 ff. Pis. 7. 9. (15) H. Wrede, Die spätantike Hermengalerie von Welschbillig (Römisch-Germanische Forschungen 32) Berlin 1972, 99 note 60. (16) Delbrueck, Consulardiptychen, p. 56. fig. 22. 110