A Herman Ottó Múzeum Évkönyve 44. (2005)

Gyulai Éva: Bor és kenyér II. Miskolc-toposzok az újkori utazási és honismereti irodalomban

BREAD AND WINE II MISKOLC TOPOI IN POST-MEDIEVAL TRAVELOGUES AND LOCAL HISTORY STUDIES The most detailed description of Miskolc appeared in a book by Jakob Glatz Zipser (Zipser: an ethnic German living in the Szepesség region, called Zips in German), a Protestant minister, at the close of the 18th century (Freymüthige Bemerkungen eines Ungars über sein Vaterland. Auf einer Reise durch einige Ungarische Provinzen. Teutschland, 1799). The author describes the town as a vibrant, hospitable place, which was benevolent towards newcomers, and offers a vivid portrayal of the town's Greek and Gypsy population. A traveller from Leipzig, J. G. Eisner wrote about the many Jews living in and around Miskolc in his travelogue (Ungarn durchreiset, beurtheilet und beschrieben. I. Leipzig, 1840). Several Frenchmen visited the town, including François Xavier de Feller, a Jesuit from Luxemburg, who made a pilgrimage to the grave of Didák Kelemen, the abbot of the Grey Friars, who had lived in Miskolc and was revered as a saint by the locals. English travellers too made their way to the town; one of them, Reginald Heber, later appointed bishop of Calcutta, arrived here in 1806. He found lodgings with the postmaster, with whom he conversed in Latin about the Napoleonic Wars. The postmaster confided to him that he opposed the Hapsburgs, who in his opinion had ruined the Hungarian people. The most colourful description of Miskolc was written by Bozena Nemcová, the acclaimed Czech writer, who had spent a longer period of time in the town in 1851. A growing interest in Miskolc can be noted in the 19th century Hungarian press, no doubt because it was one of the country's most rapidly growing towns. After undergoing rapid industrialisation, Miskolc became a rather shabby town, with mostly unpaved, muddy streets. Most travellers were charmed by the scenery around Miskolc and they also emphasised the churches of the many different denominations. The locals apparently shared these views. In her memoirs, Mrs Déry, the acclaimed Hungarian actress reminisces that in her youth she often appeared on the stage in Miskolc, whose inhabitants were enthusiastic theatregoers. Eva Gyulai 219

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