Folia Historica 28. (Budapest, 2013)

I. TANULMÁNYOK - Tompos Lilla: Az edelényi kastély falképeinek viselettörténeti tanulságai

A férfiruhák változatosabbak, főképpen német, kissé divatjamúlt öltözetbe öltöztette szereplőit, emellett láthatjuk a magyar tradicionális öltözéket, míg ez a nőalakok egyikénél sem jelenik meg. Jól felismerhetők az udvartartás tisztségviselői is, de a parasztság öltözeteiben megjelenő új ruhadarabok és kiegészítők egyértelműen annak ismeretéről tanúskodnak.

COSTUME HISTORICAL EDIFICATIONS OF THE WALL-PAINTINGS IN THE EDELÉNY CASTLE

Summary

The court d'honneur palace which is standing on an artifical island in the river Bódva was built for Mr. Ferenc János L'Huillier. He bought the property as a pawn from Ferenc Rákóczi in 1700 and became the owner in 1727 when he received it as a grant from the king. As written in his last will, the construction was mainly finished by 1728. According to a contract from 1769 Ferenc Lieb painted six of the palace's rooms. We do not know who requested the programme of these paintings.

You can find the four elements, the four continents and the seasons presented by allegoric personalisations as well as mitological figures on them. From the fashion- and culture-historical standpoint the most important of these pictures are the ones showing aristocrats, their personnel and peasants working on the fields. In this age people's places in the hierarchy could easily be identified by their clothing added to which was the sofisticated movement of the higher classes learned from etiquette teachers. The clothes of the women are trendy however they are all pretty similar. The clothing of men has more varieties, some of them wear Germanish, and one Hungarian pelisse cutted in the shape of a frock-coat. Some people of the court are appearing on the pictures as well, the official hunter of the court, a stableman and a husar, whom bag has the letter „E" written on it which indicates that he is part of the riding bandérium of István Esterházy. Under the allegoric personalisations representing the seasons you can find peasants doing the works related to the seasons: following the plough, sticking a pig and fishing. Their clothing as in earlier centuries were made from frieze, buckram and white linen for works in the summer. In the 18th century however more trendy closing appeared on feasts, like rocks out of cotton with flower ornaments, bodice stiffened with whalebones and wearing of hats and high boots got more common as well. It is visible that the painter Lieb knew the clothing habbits of the 18th century, he payed attention to the details like the movement of the hooped petticoat and knew how to illustrate movements which match the decorum. The clothes of women are all pretty similar, although the fashion of the time would have provided many alternatives. Accesories like hats, gloves and fans are completely missing although they would have been inevitable on summer afternoons and evenings.

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