Folia historica 18

III. Műhely - elméleti, módszertani, gyakorlati kérdések - Sipos Enikő: A Szt. László palást metamorphozisa

little silver embroidery remnant survived, which in respect of its material and technique, agrees with the mode of embroidery on the female figures face and hands. It was Madame Flury Lemberg, restorer at the Swiss Abegg Foundation, who reconstructed the original state of the chasuble, that is, the mantle form, in the course of the restoration. As the outcome of the specialist examinations it was established, that the remodelling indicated in the inventory and in the Gazotti-biography took place indeed, and, while the mantle of Saint Stephen (István) was transformed from a bellshape-chasuble into a secular piece of clothing, in our case quite contrarily a chasuble was fashioned out of a royal mantle of state and this appears to authenticate the person of the original owner, too. Through years of time the object went through several alterations and repairs. On the mantle turned into chasuble again we can discern three major repair stages. For the Millennial Exhibition of Budapest in 1897, the tattered silk fabric was sewn to the lining along the contour lines of the deficiencies and tears. Over a period of years the silk fabric got frayed again along the seams, in many places only the repair stitches survived. Therefore, when the piece was to be displayed new in a Zagreb exhibition of 1971, it had to go through another process of repair. As the intention was to show only the back part of the object, efforts were made to embellish it with gold fabric and silk pieces taken from its front part. By the year 1986 the state of preservation of the chasuble became so very critical, that a prompt professional intervention was imperative to save it. It was Madame Mechtild Flury Lemberg in Riggisberg, Switzerland, who carried out the conservation of the Saint Ladislas chasuble in 1986. As a result of this conservation we are enabled to see the object, though not in its original beauty, but at least in an enjoyable form. Self-evidently we cannot consider the research work regarding the Zagreb chasuble as completed yet. While many questions have become clarified, several uncleared points remained to exist. We know, that Saint Ladislas supported the monasteries and the cathedrals, with donations. He ordered to complete unfinished buildings of churches, and founded new monasteries, for example at Somogyvár, Kalocsa and Nagyvárad. In principle, he could have presented his mantle to any of the founded units. Thus, although its age corresponds to the era of Saint Ladislas, we cannot know for certain in what manner was the mantle taken in possession by King Károly Róbert. Another question is, at what time did it turn from a chasuble into a relic, that is when was it raised from among the paramentums. The only certainty remains, that the inscription „Ladislai Regis" was embroidered into it when it had already been venerated as a holy relic. Rajzok 1. Az aranyszövet szegélyek eredeti helye a palást formán 2. Az aranyszövet szegélyek elrendezése a palást átalakítása után a miseruhán 265