Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 28. (Budapest, 2012)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Metallic Thread Lace Ornaments on the Textiles of the Esterházy Treasury

piece. It cannot be established conclusively whether it was made by a lace-maker, a button-maker or a gold embroiderer, because all these techniques

2

2 can be demonstrated. (fig. 6) At first glance, this highly decorative garment of plastic ornamenta5. Dolman tion resembles the enlarged variant of gros point de Venise. (fig. 7) The extraordinary quality of the pattern is further enhanced by varied types and thicknesses of cords and strands of gold and silver threads. This is the only lace in the collection that was not bought by the meter but designed directly for this piece of clothing. First the parts of the coat were cut out, the pattern was drawn onto them, the previously completed various motifs were sewn onto them and finally the parts were sewn together. As the making of the lace was part of the whole process, it was presumably also made in Hungary. It cannot be ascertained whether the lace was made by a Hungarian master or a foreign artisan engaged for the job. The following account from 1709 written in the court of Prince Ferenc Rákóczi II might as well have been written about this garment: "He called metal thread makers from Turkey who made metallic threads or wires out of thin silver and gold sheets which the court embroiderers used to embellish the prince's dolmans and coats with foliage, flowers and braiding after drawings 59 4. Rákóczi shirt from the textile collection (MAA inv. no. 62.1287.1)