Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 27. (Budapest, 2009)

Enikő SIPOS: Hungarian-Related Textile Works in Switzerland

19-21. Saint Catherine, Saint Barbara and Saint Margaret from, a fifieenth-century pluvial (Brandenburg, Cathedral) ulations, according to which not only the goldsmiths but also the silk-painters "[...] entworfens

fürbringen sol, dabey abgenomen und erkannt iverd, ob er sich gebessert hab und welcher der besst ist

" [had to deliver designs to show how they had improved and to see which was the best] at the meeting of the guild, held in every quarter.

1 The most popular motifs were used by embroiderers, weavers, goldsmiths and carvers alike. Previously, painters were responsible for producing the designs; indeed, the textile and 22. Chasuble from Kassa (Budapest, Hungarian National Museum) embroidery patterns of Jacopo Bellini and Pisanello - some including perforated contours - are well known (fig. 15-16).

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8 Some of the embroiderers, however, designed and produced their own patterns, given that their artistic and technical skills included figure drawing. This is confirmed by the activity of the famous embroiderer Etienne le Biévre, who had moved from the Hungarian kingdom to Paris where he worked for the royal and the Burgundián court. He drew and washed his figures himself, traced the architectural details around the figures in accordance with the rules of trade in the fourteenth century.

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9 The workshops used copies of model-drawings and very probably designs of their own, because more complex patterns had to be traced. This does not mean that they faithful146