Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 26. (Budapest, 2008)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Kerchiefs Adorned with Bobbin Lace Pendants from the Second Half of the 17* and First Half of the 18th Century

tion is also supported by the fact that the size of the cloth (73 x 76 cm) is larger than required by the size of the lace. Besides, the lampas cloth was usually not decorated because the expensive fabric with its minutely elaborate design was a valuable and attractive piece by itself. Lace pendant The third item is a peculiar lace of purplish­red colour, of which a single functionless piece survives 29 (ill. 10). It came into the Mu­seum's collection from the Calvinist church of Garamszeg together with a half-ready altar cloth. The lace of 14 cm in diameter cannot have been the ornament of the cloth, but as an interesting piece it was pro­bably donated to the Museum together with the cloth."' This lace differs in form, design and colour from all the other known items. It is perfectly round, and joins the kerchief with corners outside the circle. The design is hard to make out because - similarly to the mentioned altar cloth - the technique encumbered somewhat the meant sculp­tural effect of the pattern. One can make out a design of Turkish origin but Ma­gyarized - two asymmetrical flower stems, one bent over the other - which became popular in aristocratic embroideries in the second half of the 17 th century." At the bottom there are two large leaves, and the flower heads consist of a rich baroque spiral coil of a Turkish flavour each. The purplish-red colour of the arch and the design is enhanced by the silver threads in the tape lace and the plait with picots in the ground. Its strong colour suggests that origi­nally it adorned a kerchief embroidered in purplish-red and silver thread. Such an embroidery design with the fitting lace pen­dants can be seen on the altar cloth of Dunaalmás in ill. 11. On the basis of the asymmetry, the baroque influence arriving in Hungary at some delay and the large surfaces of mesh between the thin tapes it can be dated to the first half of the 18 th century. General features Though at first sight the described lace pendants and those known in pictures widely differ, they share several common features. The fine linen of the kerchiefs is embellished with aristocratic embroidery in silver wire and coloured silk thread. The laces adorning the corners are either monochrome (white, gold) or dichrome (e.g. green-silver, purplish-red-gold, white­gold), in harmony with the colours and materials of the embroidery. In the laces 12. Detail of the altar cloth of the catholic church of Krivány, source: Eva Marková: Slovenské cipky. Bratislava, 1962, ill. 232

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