Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 24. (Budapest, 2006)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Chantilly-Laces in the Textile Collection of the Museum of Applied Arts

NOTES 1 English equivalents: point ground, net ground, Lille ground, Lille lace ground, Chantilly ground 2 Ráth, György (1829-1905) was the first director of the Musem, a well-known collector. He put together a huge collection of objects of applied arts, which augmented the collections of the Museum after his death. His valuable lace collection was also taken to the Museum. Concerning Chantilly laces, it is to be mentioned because of one piece. More: Horváth, Hilda: Iparművészeti kincsek Magyarországon. Budapest. 2000. p. 61. 1 Gudenus, János József: A magyarországi főnemesség XX. századi genealógiája. About the family Hunyady: Vol. I., Budapest, 1990. p. 582-586. About the family Zichy: the same book, Vol. IV., Budapest, 1998. p. 360-361. 4 More data concerning his life and activity: Horváth, Hilda: Iparművészeti kincsek Magyarországon. Budapest, 2000. p. 42^3. 5 The last will and contract of donation of Dr. Ottó Fettick. The archives of the Museum of Applied Arts, 1948/16. 6 Dobrovits, Aladár: Dr. Fettick Ottó mint műgyűjtő. In.: Magyar Állatorvosok Lapja. Fettick Ottó különszáma. 1955. p. 2. 7 Bárány, Istvánné: Régi csipkék kiállítása az Orsz. Magyar Iparművészeti Múzeumban. In.: Magyar Iparművészet 1933. p. 71-86. 8 Gudenus, János József: A magyarországi főnemesség XX. századi genealógiája. I. Budapest, 1990. p. 201-202. 9 We hardly know anything about Antal Szmik. Concerning his occupation, he was an engineer. In his free time, he established a significant collection of laces and embroideries, which was exhibited for the wider public twice: in 1904, in the Hungarian National Museum and in 1908, in the Museum of Applied Arts. He was the member of the Association of Saint George Guild of Hungarian Collectors and Amateurs. Of his essay ("Gizella királyné hímző iskolája"), published in 1909, Károly Viski spoke in high terms. About his folk laces he himself wrote in the Ethnographia, in 1925 with the title "A csipke a magyar népművészetben". He wrote several essays and articles about the Csetnek and Halas laces. Besides his several folk objects, the Ethnographical Museum keeps a few laces too, but there is no evidence of the whereabouts of the other laces. 10 More data concerning his life and activity: Horváth, Hilda: Iparművészeti kincsek Magyarországon. Budapest, 2000. p. 35. " For the help given to the analysis of the threads with microscope, I would like to say thanks to Katalin E. Nagy restorer (Museum of Applied Arts) and Dr. Márta Járó chemist (Hungarian National Museum, Department of Restoration and Protection of Work of Arts. The photos were taken by Dr. Márta Járó.) 12 Inv. no. 54.2216.1. 94 x 9 cm From the Collection of Dr. Ottó Fettick 13 Inv. no. 54.3065.1. 46 x 9 cm From the Collection of Dr. Ottó Fettick " Inv. no. 54.2163.1. 51 x 9,5 cm From the Collection of Dr. Ottó Fettick l! A similar lace-trimming can be seen, made in Puy in Kraatz, Anne: Dentelles. Paris, 1988. p. 123. 'Mnv.no. 91.55.1.; 91.54.1. 550 x 42 cm; 474 x 72 cm From the Collection of Countess Károly Hunyady 17 Unlike the set of crinoline laces in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, whose two pieces differ not in connection with the flower bunch - motifs, but the measure of the motive elements. See: Wardle, Patricia: 65 X Lace. Amsterdam. Rijksmuseum. 2000. Cat. No: 58. 18 Kraatz, Anne: Dentelles. Paris, Adam Biro. 1988. p. 118. '"Inv. no. 85.347.1. 90 x 50 cm From the Collection of Ms Alfonz Bolza 2

" Inv. no. 2001.51.1. 75 x 36 cm Property of Ms András Mikola 31 L. Jefimova - R. Belogorskaya: Russian Embroidery and Lace. New York, 1987. p. 154. 22 Inv. no. 91.84.1. 59 x 5.5 cm From the Collection of Countess Károly Hunyady 21 Inv. no. 89.645.1. 158 x 18,5 cm From the Collection of György Ráth 21 Inv. no. 57.227.1. 37 x 37 cm From Mária Rózsa 25 Inv. no. 91.58.1. 0 38 cm From the Collection of Dr. Ottó Fettick 26 Inv. no. 54.2996.1. 0 31 cm From the Collection of Dr. Ottó Fettick n Inv. no. 54.3042.1. 0 43 cm From the Collection of Dr. Ottó Fettick 28 Inv. no. 91.85.1. 158 x 41 cm From the Collection of Countess Károly Hunyady 29 See: Clare Browne: Lace from the Victoria and Albert Museum. London. Plate 93.; Spitzen aus Belgien vom 16. Jahrhundert bis heute. Catalogue of the Exhibition presented in Braunschweig, edited by Marguerite Coppens. 1983. Cat. No: 80. 3

" See: Virginia Burchill, Bath: Lace. London, 1974. p. 184—185.; Risselin-Steenebrugen, M: Trois siècle de dentelles. Bruxelles, Musées Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire. 1980. p. 537. " All three fans: Maros, Donka: Charming Trifles. The