Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 22. (Budapest, 2003)
Márta JÁRÓ: On the History of a 17th Century Noblemans' Dolman and Mantle, based on the Manufacturing Techniques of the Ornamental Metal Threads. Or de Milan, Or de Lyon and Silver of Clay Ornamentations on a ceremonial Costume from the Esterházy Treasury
Composition of outer surface: silver ca. 96 %, copper ca. 4 % Composition of inner surface: silver ca. 89 %, copper ca. 11 % Core: silk, S-twisted, white Manufacturing technique: strip cut from a silver sheet or wide strip, wound around a silk core in S-twist. Dolman Sample dl . silver lancé-weft thread of base fabric Description: tarnished, silver-looking wire Diameter of wire: ca. 0.05 mm Composition: pure silver Manufacturing technique: drawn wire made of pure silver. Sample dl. gold brocading-weft thread of base fabric Description: slightly tarnished, gold-looking metal strip wound around a yellowish fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip looks like tarnished silver. Width of strip: ca. 0.2-0.35 mm Composition of outer surface: 1st sample, gold ca. 43 %, silver ca. 53 %, copper ca. 4 % 2nd sample, gold ca. 52 %, silver ca. 41 %, copper ca. 7 % Composition of inner surface: 1st sample, silver ca. 95 %, copper ca. 5 % 2 nd sample: silver ca. 95 %, copper ca. 5 % Core: silk, 2-ply, S-twisted, pale yellow Manufacturing technique: strip cut from a single-sided gilt silver sheet or wide strip, wound around a silk core in S-twist. Sample d3. gold thread of the tulle-base lace Description: tarnished, gold-looking, springy metal strip wound around a white fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip is similar to the outer side. Width of strip: ca. 0.2 mm Composition of outer surface: copper ca. 79 %, zinc ca. 21 % Composition of inner surface: not measured Composition on cross-section of strip: copper ca. 78 %, zinc ca. 22 % Core: linen, slightly Z-twisted, white Manufacturing technique: strip flattened from a drawn brass wire, wound around a linen core in S-twist. Sample d4. silver thread of the tulle-base lace Description: slightly tarnished, silver-looking (with reddish coloured, parallel striations) metal strip wound around a white fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip is similar to the outer side. Width of the strip: ca. 0.25 mm Composition of outer surface: silver ca. 14 %, copper ca. 86 % Composition of inner surface: silver ca. 9.5 %, copper ca. 90.5 % Composition on the cross section of the metal strip: pure copper Core: linen, Z-twisted, white Manufacturing technique: strip flattened from a drawn, silver plated copper wire, wound around a linen core in S-twist. Sample d5. gold thread of the Brussels lace Description: gold-looking, springy metal strip wound around a yellow fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip is similar to the outer side. Width of the strip: ca. 0.3 mm Composition of outer surface: copper ca. 75 %, zinc ca. 21 %, silver ca. 2% Composition of inner surface: copper ca. 77 %, zinc ca. 23 % Composition of cross-section of strip: copper ca. 75.5 %, zinc ca. 24.5 % Core: silk, 4-5 ply Z-twisted, yellow Manufacturing technique: strip flattened from drawn brass wire, wound around a silk core in S-twist. Sample d6. silver thread of the Brussels lace Description: silver-looking (with reddish coloured parts) metal strip wound around a white-greenish fibrous core in S-twist. The inner side of the metal strip is similar to the outer side.
