Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 22. (Budapest, 2003)

Márta JÁRÓ: On the History of a 17th Century Noblemans' Dolman and Mantle, based on the Manufacturing Techniques of the Ornamental Metal Threads. Or de Milan, Or de Lyon and Silver of Clay Ornamentations on a ceremonial Costume from the Esterházy Treasury

supposing that the silk fabric of the mantle and dolman was produced in the first half of the 17

th century, in Milan. Contemporary written documents and more investigation data could prove this statement in the future. Decorative braids on the mantle For decoration, and to hem the edges of the garment fabric, two kinds of braid were used: one woven, and one plaited. The former is found all round the edge of the mantle, and is used to conceal and embellish the seams. The latter appears only on the arm-holes, partly to frame the opening (a continuation of the woven decoration), partly as a button-support. Both braids were made using gold and silver threads, similarly to the buttons themselves. (Fig. 10) Manufacturing technique of the metal threads The gold thread of the woven braid was made using a silk core (today of pale yellow colour), wound in S-twist with metal strip of gold colour on the outside surface and silver on the inside. On analysis, we found that the outer surface of the strip was composed of gold, silver, and about 4% copper; while in the inner surface silver with about 2% copper was detected. Thus in this case also, we have silver strip gilt on one side. The techniques of gilding, strip preparation, and spinning were probably the same as those described for the gold thread used for the brocading-weft of the base-fabric of the dolman. To make the silver thread of the woven braid, strip composed of a silver-copper alloy (copper content 4-10%, from analysis of several samples), was wound around a core of white silk, in S-twist. The silver strips were most probably cut from foil or from a wider strip. To make the gold thread of the plaited braid, silver strip gilt on one side, was wound in Stwist around a silk core. The S-twisted silk yam is today of "old-gold" colour. On the gilt outer surface of the strip the copper content was about 6%, while on the inner surface it was about 4%. Again, the manufacturing techniques was probably the same as that described for the gold thread used for the brocading-weft of the dolman. To make the silver thread of the plaited braid, silver-copper alloy was used (copper content about 2%); the metal strip was wound around a white silk core in S-twist. The silver strip in this case too was probably cut from foil or from a wider strip. Conclusions from the tests on the mantle braids As far as the manufacturing techniques are concerned, the gold threads of the two types of braid are very similar to one other, and indeed to the gold brocading-weft of the base-fabric. In the case of the silver threads, the relatively high copper content is worthy of note. Lacking sufficient samples for comparison, we cannot yet draw a firm conclusion from this. We note however that the base material of the silver and gilt silver wires, as well as the strips made by flattening the latter, used to make metal threads from, does not contain more than 1% copper according to our investigation data. It thus seems possible that this high copper content may be of assistance to future investigations in determining the date and place of manufacture of these threads. Lace ornamentation of the dolman The two side seams of the dolman have fabric insertions, probably as an extension. Each insertion extends upwards and downwards from the armpit about 50cm in total length. The tapered insertions, 5-6 cm wide at the broadest point, are covered with two types of bobbinlace (or perhaps three; see below), with a thinner, tulle base one, and with a less delicate (thicker) Brussels style one. The two types of lace are sewn together where they meet. (Fig. 11) In the left armpit the thinner lace is almost totally decayed; the metal of the metal threads is corroded away, and the core is frayed. On the few remaining sound fragments, green corrosion-products are visible on the metal surface. On the right side of the garment, at the junction seam we found two further metal threads whose morphology differs from the four metal threads of the two types of lace, and whose origin cannot be determined. These may perhaps come