Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 22. (Budapest, 2003)

Márta JÁRÓ: On the History of a 17th Century Noblemans' Dolman and Mantle, based on the Manufacturing Techniques of the Ornamental Metal Threads. Or de Milan, Or de Lyon and Silver of Clay Ornamentations on a ceremonial Costume from the Esterházy Treasury

analysed individually. So for instance in the case of an item richly decorated with metal threads, to obtain a true picture may require 10, 20, or even more sample analyses. The timeconsuming nature and the expense of such analyses is a further obstacle to the examination of the large number of thread-samples which would ideally be needed for a statistical evaluation of textile-manufacturing techniques. Historical sources tend to be rather laconic about, or indeed do not even mention, the manufacturing technique of the various metal threads; this was regarded as a commercial secret (as in fact is the case today). This explains why earlier and even present descriptions of metal-threaded fabrics typically refer simply to "gold" and "silver" thread. Lacking the contemporary manufacturing "recipes", and also lacking calibration data from analysis of a sufficient number of accurately-dated textile items, the researcher can aim only at establishing the origin of a particular type of metal thread, and the probable limits of the date of its use.

18 With these limitations in mind, we will nevertheless attempt to establish a more accurate estimate of when and where these two items of clothing (or rather, their metal threads) were made. Further, we shall attempt to establish the chronology of certain phases of the garments' later history, on the basis of the manufacturing techniques of the metal threads, by comparing these techniques with similar data relating to threads from items of known age and origin. In the course of this comparison, we make use of relevant information from contemporary and from later written sources. Analysis techniques In the analyses we used scientific methods, in some cases with slight modifications, which have been used in this field in Hungary and elsewhere for some 30 years.

19 To the best of our belief, such methods were first employed for this purpose by E. Hoke in Austria.

20 The macro-morphological analysis

21 was performed using an optical microscope in reflected- and transmitted-light, under a magnification of 10-50x. The micro-morphological analysis of the metal surfaces was performed using a scanning electron microscope, under a magnification of 70-10000x. The composition of the metal materials was determined using energy-dispersive X-ray microanalysis.

22 On the basis of the descriptions of these garments given in the 1990 catalogue of the Museum of Applied Arts 23

, we may give the following summary as far as the metal threads are concerned. The silk base-fabric of the dolman is silver thread lancé-weft, brocaded with a twist of two gold threads; while the buttons are made of metal thread, as is the lace sewn into the side seams. The base-fabric of the mantle is the same as that of the dolman, and its pattern is also similar. The tailoring seams are highlighted using metal-braid trimmings. The mantle is fastened with segmented buttons made of metal thread, and matching loops. The slit-openings of the mantle sleeves are likewise fastened with buttons made of metal thread. We took the samples for analysis from these above-mentioned metal-thread ornamentations, and also from further metal threaded parts discovered during the study of the pieces.

24 The buttons were not examined, since it was not feasible to obtain samples. Six thread samples from the mantle were investigated: - silver thread (lancé weft) and gold thread (brocading weft) woven in the silk base-fabric. - silver and gold threads from the woven braids. - silver and gold threads from the plaited braids. We analysed seven threads of various manufacturing techniques taken from the dolman, viz.: - silver thread (lancé weft) and gold thread (brocading weft) woven in the silk base-fabric. - silver and gold threads from the two types of bobbin-lace inserts in the side seams. - silver thread used for repair to a damaged spot. The detailed results of the examinations are given in the Appendix, to facilitate comparison with the results of possible future investigations.