Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 16. (Budapest, 1997)

FAJCSÁK Györgyi-Z. FIKÓ Katalin: Kínai szoknya a 19. század végéről - Restaurálás és dokumentáció

Colour: red Density: 120/cm Weft: one weft Material: silk Colour: red Density: 40-44/cm Weaving technique: eight-end satin; interruption 3 Width of fabric: cannot be established Fabric border: canvas-binding; 0.3 cm wide Analysis of the weave of the blue silk damask lining (111. 9) of the skirt was as follows: Fabric structure Warp: one thread Material: silk Colour: blue Density: 48/cm Weft: one thread Material: silk Colour: blue Twist: untwisted Density: 40-44/cm Weaving technique: canvas-based, 3.1 warp twill; twill direction: Z Fabric width: cannot be established Fabric border: blue silk, 0.5 cm wide Pattern repeat: length: 4.5 cm; width: 7 cm Of the ornamentation techniques used on the skirt, satin and relief embroidery made from silk can both be found, along with Chinese knot-stitch and metal-thread embroidery. The embroidery is outlined in onde embellishing thread. Besides the embroidery, the front, back and sides of the skirt are also embellished with appliqué work. The two-sided satin-stitch was made using green, blue, pink, red, yellow and beige untwisted silk thread. The plasticity of the relief embroidery (111. 10) is ensured by silk threads on top of each other and filled out from underneath. The embroidery was made using green, blue, pink, red, yellow and beige untwisted silk thread. The knotstitch (111. 11) was made with untwisted black and yellow thread. The metal-thread embroidery (111. 12), however, was made from gilded paper wound around beige, Z twist silk thread. Paper-based metal threads (Chinese: jin xian) were used in China even before the 16th century in both fabrics and embroidery. Gold thread was made as follows: to begin with 128 pieces of gold foil 0.01 mm in thickness were made from a piece of gold weighing 1.2 Hang (approx. 5 g). Then, in the course of many stages, paper was made from young bamboo. This paper was soaked in water, and the gold foil was applied to it using a smooth piece of stone. The gilded paper thus produced was then cut into thin strips, and these strips were woven into the fabric. The "metal thread" employed in embroidery differed from the "metal thread" used in weaving in that the former consisted of paper strips wound round the silk thread needed for the embroidery work. The outline embroidery on the skirt was done using S twist black and beige onde silk thread (111. 13). The base material of the appliqué embroidery is red atlas; its outline was done in eight-thread braiding (111. 14). Paper stiffener stuck on the reverse side of the silk appliqué pieces - which are done with Z twist, blue and beige silk - was employed. Fabric analysis of the bands embellishing the borders of the trapezium-shaped fields of the skirt was as follows: Fabric structure: Warp: Material: silk Colours: beige, green, red, black Twist: moderately S Density: 60/cm Weft: Material: silk Colour: beige Twist: moderately S Density: 20/cm Weaving technique: Base: canvas Pattern: flushing warp floats Size: 1 cm wide