Vadas József (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 12. (Budapest, 1992)

HORVÁTH Hilda: Marcel Jean textiltervei a Francia-Magyar Pamutipar RT számára

HILDA HORVÁTH MARCEL JEAN'S TEXTILE DESIGNS FOR THE FRENCH-HUNGARIAN COTTON INDUSTRY CORPORATION Encouraged by the joy of exploration and the intensive public interest in surrealism, we would like to introduce die textile de­signs of Marcel Jean, a French surrealist painter, poet and essayist. The designs were made in Hungary and can now be found in the Data Collection of the Budapest Museum of Applied Arts. 1 Marcel Jean joined the Surrealists in 1933; he exhibited with this group several times and his works were published in dif­ferent surrealist issues. His album, which was made together with his brotiier, André Jean, and which was published in 1935, contains twenty-four drawings by Marcel Jean. 2 He strictly followed the theoretical and aesthetic views of the surrealistic trend, adding a few individual technical devices to the assets of this entirely new style. For example, with his friend Oscar Dominguez, ha invented a new procedure similar to mo­notype, which they called "a transfer wit­hout a premeditated target". Jean used the transfer on canvas, while Dominguez app­lied it to paper. 3 Their unpublished joint al­bum, Grisou, contains transsfcrs widi in­terpretations. 4 Marcel Jean used stencils as well to produce unusual and audacious compositions. 5 His peculiar, playful, bour­geois-teasing ideas created artistic objects from everyday utensils and industrial pro­ducts, giving an obscure content to the ec­centric shapes. Surrealist exhibitions were astonishing attractions, especially where ob­jects were exhibited or arranged in the spectacle. Marcel Jean's "Horoscope", for example, was exhibited in 1938 in die Ga­lerie Beaux-Arts. At this monumental exhi­bition, revolving doors were placed in die main hall, togctiicr with paintings of Tan­quy, Dominguez, Marcel Jean and Paalen, while Marcel Jean's Mannequin stood on the left. 6 In die 1930s, Marcel Jean worked for various factories in order to earn a li­ving, yet his left-wing political activity was nowhere welcome. He was an active mem­ber of die Contre-Attaque anti-=fascist gro­up. This was opposed to all kinds of dic­tatorship, and attacked not only German plans to rule die world, but also Stalinism and die personality cult in Moscow. 7 The factory management suspected his involve­ment widi factory strikes, but, because of lack of evidence, he was offered a job ab­road. From among several countries, he chose Hungary. 8 He arrived in Budapest in September 1928, and he was the head of the designer's workshop in the French­Hungarian Cotton Industry Coqioration. The firm was had been in the late 1920s with French participation; however, during World War II, its name was changed to the Budapest Cotton Industry Corporation un­der German pressure. The managers were mainly French, but were often intimidated by the Germans. 9 Marcel Jean had been

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