Imre Jakabffy (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 3. (Budapest, 1975)

KOÓS, Judith: Some Hungarian masters of the goldsmith's art of the Art Nouveau

was in a black frame, under glass-plate. However, we do not find this frame on the picture. The frame covered with golden brown velvet matching with the similarly golden brown enamel background is of equal breadth above on the right and the left side, and broader below. The label on its reverse informs us about the origin of the frame, viz.: ,,Tableaux, Gravuers, encadre­ments A. LEGASTELOLS Boulevard Sé­bastopol 95 PARIS". The letter and numeral types on the label, as well as the examination of the frame show that it was prepared about the turn of the century. Marked: below to the right Hibján S. (fig. 3.). Oszkár Tarján excelled especially in the jewels of smaller size. The jiendants, clasps, necklaces, etc. prepared by him, adorned with translucid enamels and gems, are con­spicuous. The most important period of his activity falls on the turn of the century, when following the example of René Lali que, besides the Hungarian traditions he also adopted the most eminent achievements of French enamel art. In the course of the four decades of his activity he participated in every more significant Hungarian and for­eign exhibition. His activity, also in this re­lationship, is recorded by the contemporary periodicals, especially by the Magyar Ipar­művészet (MI). Among these we find his cup with enamel ornamentation published in 1902, 7 which clearly shows the characteris­tics mentioned above (fig. 5.). The main decorative motive of the cup, which gives the ringwise closing down of this object as the repetition of one of the part motives, appears also individually, in a similar form, as the pendant of one of his necklaces, in the possession of the Budapest Museum of Ap­plied Arts (fig. G.). 8 The gilded silver pendant is adorned with cloisonné enamel of blue colour ranging from the medium blue to the shaded light blue, and of yellow colour. The upper part of the 2. S. HIBJÁN: BRACELET WITH PRECIOUS STONES AND ENAMELLED ORNAMENTATION, ABOUT 1900. MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS pendant is shaped cordiforni, joined on both sides by a trilobate closing down each in a ruffled form. The elongated form of the up­per cordiforni part, which gradually tapers off downwards, is joined below by a parallel concentric ornament, from the middle of which a false pearl is hanging down. Above it is a yellow enamelled small cordiforni mo­tive. The upper tip of the cordiforni part is joined by the susjDender carrying the gilded silver lace made of twisted wire, equipped at its end with a ring-like clutch, surround­ing the neck. This pendant was designed and prepared by Oszkár Tarján, its provenance is unknown. The other pendant is also a good example for the qualities of the above master as an enam­ellist (fig. 7.). 9 This pendant represents a stylized Hungarian floral motive made of gilded silver cloisonné enamel, in light green, dark green, two kinds of blue, two kinds of yellow, lilac and white colours. In the interi­or of the seventeen-lobed floral motive we find blue, circular ornaments of cloisonné

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